Ride 'Em Cowboy and Cowgirl!

After an early morning drive to the Cape Town airport, a two-hour flight to Jo'burg, a torturous car rental, and a three and a half drive to Horizon, we arrive!  And before we even enter the gatehouse, we are greeted by the locals!!

This is our very first sighting of giraffes on this trip and we are absolutely gob-smacked!  We had heard that they can camouflage themselves and we thought - yeah right! - how do you camouflage a 20-foot tall creature with spots and then we saw the upper portion of the one here and we got it!

Isn't this a beauty!!  And then we pull into Horizon and wow oh wow -  this is where the one-tenth of the one percent come to vacation!!  We have the chalet - actually a very posh rondavel - on the lower left.  It's bigger than just about any rental we've ever had anywhere.

The total capacity of the property is 30 but there are only about 14 guests right now which makes for a very nice meal time, which we eat communally in the lodge.  But first, we're immediately whisked off for a 'sundowner', apparently de rigeur for every new guest as well as those who've been out on their afternoon ride.  And each day is a different locale.  Today's is atop a rocky outcrop where we snack, drink and watch the sun go down.

Those who rode to the sundowner have parked their mounts down below.  And, yes, me who is terrified of heights had yet another opportunity to overcome that by scrambling up those rocks!

Bright and early the next morning we are at the lodge for breakfast and shortly thereafter ready to mount up and ride off into the seemingly endless wilderness surrounding the property.

We've both asked for gentle, calm horses and given that Horizon has 91 horses (yes, 91) in their herd, that isn't going to be a problem.  And we are delighted to see that the saddles are actually quasi-western, modeled on the US cavalry saddles with actual cantles and a big horn-like thing to hang onto!  There are two rides a day, morning which can last up to four hours and afternoon which is about two hours.  Each ride has a guide who is trained and licensed in local animal life and flora who rides up front and a volunteer who brings up the rear.  We even have our own, personalized water bottle attached to the saddle, which has been specially chosen for our weight and height and we keep for our whole stay.

A number of guests have been here for a while and they are in the 'fast' group which means they do a lot of cantering and galloping.  Tim and I are most certainly not 'fast' - weren't even into galloping when we had horses!  We're quite happy to walk, do some trotting, and a little cantering and soak up this glorious part of Africa.

I put my camera in the saddle bag but, frankly, there weren't too many opportunities to take photos while riding!  On one of our stops with a guide who is straight out of central casting - we've dubbed him the Crocodile Dundee of Limpopo - Nancy, a sweet young volunteer fresh from the UK - takes a lovely shot of the two of us.

And Esve (aka Crocodile Dundee) has dismounted to pluck us a sample of one of the bush wonders.  I forget now whether it was bush toilet paper, bush soap plant, bush hand cream or bush analgesic but we had them all by the end of that ride.

Riding slow means we got to spot a lot more animals than we'd have seen galloping through the bush.  This big fella actually lives in the lake right in front of our chalet.  There is a very understated sign near the lake edge:  Hippos - Swim at Your Own Risk.  Really????

Horizon is also home to a few orphans including Tossie, an aging zebra who was drummed out of his herd because he was considered too old to keep up or be of much use.

He wanders happily around and occasionally will go and pay the horses a visit.   I didn't know that zebras can't be ridden because their backbones are not strong enough to support much more weight than that of a young child.

And a young owl is being nursed back to health after being discovered on the road with a broken wing.

Did I mention the food?  It is absolutely fabulous!!  We have three meals a day and tea early afternoon before the ride.  The rates include all the booze you can drink, and while Tim and I do not take advantage of the booze, it is a big part of the sundown stop.  I am amazed that anyone can drink gin and tonic and then gallop home!

Someone hauls this cooler and a supply of snacks to each sundowner location, and there are no shortage of takers for the beer, wine, gin, sodas, and water on offer.  I must admit, these cold drinks sure hit the spot after a long ride.  I am impressed that people can drink gin and tonics and then gallop home!!

This is truly an international guest list - our chalet neighbors are from the Netherlands, another couple is from the UK, a single guy from Australia, another from Sweden, and two women from Germany.

I'm so grateful to report that we both did really well on all our rides - namely, we didn't fall off, didn't injure ourselves, any of the other riders or the horses.  And the guides and volunteers graciously took us on slow rides - in fact, we had one or two other guests join us!  The weather was absolutely glorious for our whole stay and we made a fabulous new friend - Kirsty!

Kirsty is one of the administrators of Horizon, and we just had an instant bond over a long post-lunch conversation.  She and her partner have a standing invitation to visit us in the States.

All too soon our stay at Horizon is coming to an end, but we decide to forego the last afternoon ride and instead book a safari at the Waterberg Reserve.  And that's my next post!

(Read 'Ride 'Em Cowboy' before this one!) The Last Two of the Big Five!!

To get to Entabeni and the Waterburg Reserve, we drive an hour and half over dirt roads and arrive at the lodge where we meet, Tjaart, our guide.  At last, we will be riding around in one of those iconic safari vehicles with the open sides and tiered seating.  Tjaart (pronounced 'chart') asks us what we're especially interested in seeing and, as one voice, Tim and I say 'rhinos'!  Tjaart says that shouldn't be a problem, as he had seen several on a drive that morning.

A quick overview of the Waterburg Reserve.  It is on two escarpments and is a kind of mini Kruger NP.  The northernmost border actually abuts Botswana, and the game protection in this part of SA mirrors that of Botswana.  It is vigorous and passionate.  We pass numerous 'inspection stations' where the sole mandate of the guards is to check for rhino horns.  There are something like 20 rhinos in this reserve and only a few left in Botswana.  In fact, Botswana is so rigid in their protection they have outlawed Chinese tourists in their country.  Yes, outlawed!  And if you're found in the bush in Botswana with a gun of any kind, you are assured of being shot, on sight, no questions asked, by a Botswana game warden.

Back to our game drive . . . we leave the lodge and head over the pass onto the escarpment in search of rhinos.  It is a challenging drive over a partially-paved road . . . to this fabulous view.

On the way we meet another safari group that's stopped to admire something no South African would even pick up because they're 'bad juju' - a chameleon.  This fellow is from Botswana and holds the chameleon up close for a photo - I didn't know that chameleons have eyes that allow them to see 360 degrees!

Down from the mountain, we head for the rhino hangout.  And we're not disappointed!  There they are - a momma and her youngster.  These are white rhino, so named not for the color of their skin (which I mistakenly thought) but for that fact that they only have one big horn.  The black rhino, far more elusive and endangered, have two horns, one of which will sell for $1million on the black market.

Momma up close . . .

Remarkably, they are not startled by the sound of our vehicle or one on an adjoining road.

From there, we head off to look for more game and are rewarded by a most remarkable sight - a recently born wildebeest calf.  We look around and there are scores of them - we've been so fortunate to arrive at calving season!

And poppa wildebeest just hanging out and taking it easy . . .

A beautiful kudu right beside the game path:

We stop for the sundowner (sans booze) . . .

Tjaart points out the 'million dollar' golf shot, just above the canopy on our vehicle.

For a hefty fee, golfers can be helicoptered to the top of that high plateau where a tee is strategically placed.  With a million dollars at stake, the golfer swings and tries to land a hole in one on the lower plateau where a flag indicates the elusive hole.  To date, no one's made it.

Good bye Waterburg . . .

And good night South Africa!

But wait, that's only four of the big five!  It's pitch dark by the time we make our way home and about 2km from Horizon, Tim shouts:  I just saw a leopard!  Our driver excitedly agrees and is amazed; even he's never seen one and this one sprinted across the road right in front of our van.  So I don't have the photo proof but I believe and we're counting it!!

Holidays in Hermanus and Adieu to Our Traveling Companions

Nearing the end of our time in South Africa, and we're booked into an AirBnB accommodation, an old fishing cottage, a short walk from the town of Hermanus.  This is another of those Cape Town escape venues, and it, too, is awash in tourists.  It is renowned as a site for spectacular whale watching as they migrate from the Antarctic to warmer waters but, sadly, we're about a month late for that so will have to make do with our own entertainment.

I am so blest - all my favorite things for my special day:  my wonderful husband, dear friends, lamb on the braai, and carrot birthday cake!

We've declared this last ten days together a 'chill' time and have planned just a few outings - the first one to the southernmost tip of the continent - Cape Agulhas.

Someone figured out that this is where the two oceans meet - there's nothing in the surf to indicate that - but there is a very old lighthouse (one of dozens along the southern coast) to alert sailers of the rocky shoreline.

If you look really hard, you can probably see Paul and Debbie up on the railing walk!

And, of course there is a penguin colony quite nearby which merits a visit.  This is particularly timely as they are near the end of their annual molting phase.  I think it could also be described as their cranky time.

I think I might be cranky too if I had to spend three months waiting for my old coat to shed and the new coat to grow in.  These remarkable creatures do just that once a year!  I can't help but wonder how they know when to start porking up in anticipation of their three-month fast and how they all know to come ashore at the same place at roughly the same time.  I say 'roughly' because some of these wee ones are already decked out in their new plumage and are frolicking in the surf.

Delightful visit and another insight into these wonderful, amazing creatures.

And this amusing reminder as we head back to the car!  We check.

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Not far from us is a wee gem, the Robert Nixon Palmer Botanical Garden.  This is an absolute delight!  It's small but very thoughtfully laid-out with clearly-marked trails and some spectacular views that highlight the uniquely indigenous vegetation of the coastal area.

And, amazingly, given the drought-stricken areas we've seen so much of, there are streams and ponds throughout the garden.

One area of the garden is devoted to the plants used by the Bushmen for food, medicinals, and shelter.

Our last outing with dear Paul and Debbie . . .

Tomorrow, they're off to Jo'burg on the luxurious Blue Train, and we fly to Jo'burg and then drive to the remote northern part of SA for our stay at Horizon Horseback Safari.

What a trip this has been!  We're traveled over 5,000 miles, seen a vast and diverse swath of South Africa, eaten well, and managed to stay friends for this long journey.   We are so grateful to have had their companionship on yet another 'Excellent Adventure'!

Next stop - Limpopo!!

Fossils and Birds of the Western Cape

Not far from our guesthouse is the West Coast Fossil Park, another trip back in time.  This one boasts one of the most spectacular collections of prehistoric animals - in situ - thanks to a flood that trapped a number of them.  Most have been left where they fell, making for a mother lode of fossils.  Our guide Wendy, describing the fossils we're seeing . . .

This jawbone is from a giraffe . . .  the animals drowned, were swept up by the flood waters, and deposited in pieces all over this valley.

- a short-necked, long-horned giraffe.  Quite odd!

Wendy explaining the contents of this area of the dig.

Another must see sight near Pater Noster is the Western Cape National Park, renowned for its birds.  We are not disappointed.

A short walk from a parking area is a 'bird hide' (never been in one of these!) and within seconds this charming fellow makes an appearance, within arm's reach.  I'm no birder but he was absolutely beautiful and fearless!

And a flock of flamingoes which remained in the shallows, . . .

Then it's off to an idyllic little beach who there are actually of couple of houseboats on moorings!  Too bad we didn't have our swimsuits in hand.

And finally a trip to Lambert's Bay about an hour north and home of the Western Cape Gannet Colony.  I don't know if you can call a flock of 30,000 gannets a colony - maybe more like a city.  These birds are absolutely amazing!

We watch spellbound as the birds circle, announcing to their mates that they're 'comin' home' After a few circles, they but on the brakes and make what looks like a most ungraceful landing but landing in this so small feat!  And these are all breeding pairs!  We're so fortunate to have come when they're here as two months from now they will all have migrated to Mozambique or Angola.  Now the chicks are nearly full grown but still being fed by the parents regurgitating the fruits of their hunt.

Gannets dive bomb toward the water at upwards of 30mph and in the last few seconds before they hit the surface they tuck their wings into their body, become an underwater guided missile, and after scooping up unsuspecting fish make their way to the surface and fly off.  Amazing!

This imaginative sculpture - St somebody or Other - guards the entrance to the harbor as well as the gannet colony - made me want to get home and start creating something clever with all our 'treasures'!  Yes, there is still an active fishing industry in Lambert's Bay and we have a fabulous lunch.

Time for us to head to Hermanus to celebrate Christmas and New Year's - and, my birthday!

Our Father Which Art in South Africa. . .

I'm always amazed at how much I don't know and frequently I'm even more amazed by what I think I know that turns out to be wrong.  Take the first explorers to set foot in southern Africa.  The Dutch in search of a spice route to India - right?  Wrong!  It was the Portugese, led by that intrepid explorer, Bartholomew Dias, who eventually made it to . . . . but I get ahead of myself . . .

Old Bartholomew stopped off on the west coast of Africa, about 100 miles or so from Cape Town (although he didn't know it was Cape Town or how far away it was), stayed on for a while, and dubbed it 'Paternoster' - Our Father.   And so it remains today, a sweet, seaside town, kind of an Rehoboth or Rocky Point for Cape Towners who want an escape from the city.  Especially during school holidays which last almost a month starting in mid-December.  We're right in the midst of them and to borrow one of Deb's favorite words, it is 'heaving'!

We're tucked into an absolutely delightful B&B a few miles out of town, owned by Marion and Deon, a German-South African couple who have created a truly first class retreat.  There are only four units, and ours has a 270 degree view over the mountains and ocean.  We've got lightning fast internet, wonderful cable tv, a gorgeous bathroom, comfy bedding, and a hot water bottle which feels heavenly on my still sore back.  And we get breakfast, bargain laundry, and great tips on where to go and what to see! 

Our room is on the upper left and Tim has finally figured out to make the incredible shrinking woman!

Marion and Deon have a delightfully wacky sense of humor and have posed trolls in various places, in unexpected poses!

Scattered throughout the property are what I've dubbed 'cuddle boxes' which we take advantage of!

We also take a moonlit dip in the Fred Flinstone hot tub (a wood-fired snorkel tub) . . . 

. . . and consider having a braai in a wigwam, compliments of Marion and Deon's trip to the American SW and their fascination with Indians.  They also have a double wigwam, complete with bathroom for those who want to really do the Indian thing (well, maybe the bathroom is a bit non-Indian)!

Off to the gorgeous beach and our first stroll along the Atlantic Ocean.

There were thousands of these creatures right near the shore and we were fascinated by them.  As soon as we touched them or dug at them with a mussel shell, they sunk beneath the sand.  If we continued to search for them below the sand, they kept burrowing deeper and deeper . . . 

And birds in abundance . . . those are all mussels on the rocks!

We meet up with Sybil and her twin Sabina for a really chatty lunch where we catch them up on all travels since we last saw Sybil in Jo'burg.

Our father - delightful wee town!