OK, it's Sunday and wherever we are we find at least one church to match our beliefs. A quick internet search reveals a cathedral that appears to be reasonably close. Our gracious host, Haksar, agrees to take us there in his tuk tuk. First stop, an abandoned Catholic church. Wrong one. Haksar enquires of several people on the street and we're off again, another 6km to St. Sebastian's. Somehow we're there in time for the mass and, needless to say, the object of much discreet curiosity. Several children approach us asking 'from where are you coming'? It's crowded (maybe 500 people), all the women in gorgeous saris, the men in traditional dress, and the children in assorted finery (when do girls start wearing saris anyway?) Saris make all women beautiful. We're sitting just inside one of the side doors (all shoes off and outside) thinking we can make a quick getaway if this turns out to be a marathon service.
The musicians start tuning up, a priest, a deacon, and a couple of altar boys appear so something's about to happen. The priest comes over to us and explains, in perfect English, that this is the Feast of St. Sebastian, and we will all go outside the main doors and then come back inside. OK, we're in for that or about to be out. Barefoot. Everyone has candles and a woman next to me hands us two candles and offers hers for a light. There's some sort of invocation, blessing, recitation of St.Sebastian's role in the early church - this is all speculation on our part. We don't speak Malayalam (slurred in speech to 'Malayum'. Gotcha - unless you've been to South India bet you've never heard of this language. It is most unusual; we thought it was Hindi and were promptly corrected.
We all file back inside and amazingly we find the same seats, near the door and, more importantly, our shoes. As with most church services anywhere, the order of things in remarkably similar. And this is no different. Then we get to the homily, given by what Tim tells me is the deacon. It was a long one, filled with what we both felt was a lot of yelling. Maybe it's a Malayalam thing. After about 20 minutes, Tim leans over and whispers 'Let's go.'
Photo of the cathedral (side door of our exit) and the street sign.
We've made out getaway but now we have no idea where we are or how to get back home! Back to the main road and, miracle of miracles, a tuk tuk appears. We carry the business card for our place which we show to the driver who proceeds to take us to Kerala Beach, not Oddayam Beach. It's a lively spot so we get out and see what's happening there. Photo of our tuk tuk ride.
We have a wander about, a lassi in a beach front cafe, buy some clothes from a booth run by a delightful Indian couple. Two shirts and a pair of pants - 1350INR or about $21.
Realize that we can get 'home' by walking along the Varkala Cliffs - off we go! Cliff path lined (on one side) with shops selling everything from travel services to on-the-spot, ready-made clothing (the owner sits there sewing and will get up to wait on you.
View from the cliffs.
Almost home - time for a cold beer on the beach front and watch the sun set over the Arabian Sea. Interesting, beer is never shown on the menu; you have to ask the waiter. He brings the bottle (Kingfisher is the beer here), pours it into what looks like a large creamer/small coffee pot (white porcelain - contents not visible), and then takes the bottle away.
More on locals, customs, tomorrow.
The musicians start tuning up, a priest, a deacon, and a couple of altar boys appear so something's about to happen. The priest comes over to us and explains, in perfect English, that this is the Feast of St. Sebastian, and we will all go outside the main doors and then come back inside. OK, we're in for that or about to be out. Barefoot. Everyone has candles and a woman next to me hands us two candles and offers hers for a light. There's some sort of invocation, blessing, recitation of St.Sebastian's role in the early church - this is all speculation on our part. We don't speak Malayalam (slurred in speech to 'Malayum'. Gotcha - unless you've been to South India bet you've never heard of this language. It is most unusual; we thought it was Hindi and were promptly corrected.
We all file back inside and amazingly we find the same seats, near the door and, more importantly, our shoes. As with most church services anywhere, the order of things in remarkably similar. And this is no different. Then we get to the homily, given by what Tim tells me is the deacon. It was a long one, filled with what we both felt was a lot of yelling. Maybe it's a Malayalam thing. After about 20 minutes, Tim leans over and whispers 'Let's go.'
Photo of the cathedral (side door of our exit) and the street sign.
We've made out getaway but now we have no idea where we are or how to get back home! Back to the main road and, miracle of miracles, a tuk tuk appears. We carry the business card for our place which we show to the driver who proceeds to take us to Kerala Beach, not Oddayam Beach. It's a lively spot so we get out and see what's happening there. Photo of our tuk tuk ride.
We have a wander about, a lassi in a beach front cafe, buy some clothes from a booth run by a delightful Indian couple. Two shirts and a pair of pants - 1350INR or about $21.
Realize that we can get 'home' by walking along the Varkala Cliffs - off we go! Cliff path lined (on one side) with shops selling everything from travel services to on-the-spot, ready-made clothing (the owner sits there sewing and will get up to wait on you.
View from the cliffs.
Almost home - time for a cold beer on the beach front and watch the sun set over the Arabian Sea. Interesting, beer is never shown on the menu; you have to ask the waiter. He brings the bottle (Kingfisher is the beer here), pours it into what looks like a large creamer/small coffee pot (white porcelain - contents not visible), and then takes the bottle away.
More on locals, customs, tomorrow.
