What an absolutely delightful surprise! Thank you, thank you, Caroline and Julie for suggesting we add La Rochelle to our itinerary. We've never talked to anyone who's been here, read anything about it, but it sounded like a perfect 'water fix' about now. I managed to find a fabulous flat (formerly an artist's atelier) about 10" outside town . . . a click of the gate and we're inside.
I could definitely channel my inner princess here.
And the bathroom had his and her sinks . . . this is heaven. We've stayed in lots of places over the years and on several continents, but this has to rank right up there as one of the neatest places we've ever stayed. This adventure is off to a really fine start!! Off to discover La Rochelle.
La Rochelle is about halfway down the Atlantic coast of France and has been a major port since the time of the Romans. Its harbor is flanked by two ancient stone towers and is still home to a massive fishing fleet, sailing fleet, and trans-oceanic shipping concerns. A quick stop at the Tourist Center with the friendliest most helpful staff, and we're parked and on our way. First stop - lunch!
I order mussels in the 'traditional' style (there seem to be 100 of them in the pot) and Tim orders carbonara, both of which are wonderful. A wander around the inner harbor . . .
And through the arch and into the old town for a walkabout.
We decide to visit the Museum of the New World which our handy tourist guide tells us is mostly about the French and the slave trade. Huh? The French and the slave trade?? Once we actually think about it, it all makes sense. The French West Indies were essentially island plantations, and plantations needed workers, lots and lots of them. What we now know as Haiti was a French colonial possession. Apparently, the French were very good at this slave trade . . .
Well, color both of us stunned and surprised! This is a very sobering and depressing bit of French history for sure.
Less than 1% of the slaves who were brought from Africa (primarily Senegal) by the French were successful at revolting during their voyages. We can't read the plaque, but think this statue may be in recognition of those few . . .
Of the three French Atlantic coast ports (Nantes and Bordeaux being the other two), La Rochelle was the busiest and most profitable for slavers. The slave trade was officially abolished with the Revolution, but Napoleon brought it back at the end of the 18th century (to strengthen the French presence in North America and share in the profits from the plantations). It wasn't until 1848 that slavery was officially abolished in France, a consequence of various military defeats on American soil and revolts in places like Haiti, rather than a realignment of France's moral compass.
From the late 1500's when the French began slave trading, until its abolitions, the French brought 1.25 million African blacks to French colonies in the Caribbean. Many French family fortunes were 'earned' this way . . . the museum audio guide relates that the owner of the house that now includes this museum was a slaver.
On an upbeat note, the museum has a stunning collection of the photographs of Edward Curtis. I looked at this one and then looked again with that 'I know this place' feeling.
No, it couldn't be . . . but it is!! An early 1900's Curtis photo of the San Xavier Mission which is about 10 miles from where we live. Here it is hanging in a museum in La Rochelle, France!
We've loved our wander around the harbor and the old city, but it's a sober pair who make their way back to the car park.
I could definitely channel my inner princess here.
And the bathroom had his and her sinks . . . this is heaven. We've stayed in lots of places over the years and on several continents, but this has to rank right up there as one of the neatest places we've ever stayed. This adventure is off to a really fine start!! Off to discover La Rochelle.
La Rochelle is about halfway down the Atlantic coast of France and has been a major port since the time of the Romans. Its harbor is flanked by two ancient stone towers and is still home to a massive fishing fleet, sailing fleet, and trans-oceanic shipping concerns. A quick stop at the Tourist Center with the friendliest most helpful staff, and we're parked and on our way. First stop - lunch!
I order mussels in the 'traditional' style (there seem to be 100 of them in the pot) and Tim orders carbonara, both of which are wonderful. A wander around the inner harbor . . .
And through the arch and into the old town for a walkabout.
Colonnaded walkways, sidewalk cafes, auto-free streets . . . French living at it finest!
We decide to visit the Museum of the New World which our handy tourist guide tells us is mostly about the French and the slave trade. Huh? The French and the slave trade?? Once we actually think about it, it all makes sense. The French West Indies were essentially island plantations, and plantations needed workers, lots and lots of them. What we now know as Haiti was a French colonial possession. Apparently, the French were very good at this slave trade . . .
Well, color both of us stunned and surprised! This is a very sobering and depressing bit of French history for sure.
Less than 1% of the slaves who were brought from Africa (primarily Senegal) by the French were successful at revolting during their voyages. We can't read the plaque, but think this statue may be in recognition of those few . . .
Of the three French Atlantic coast ports (Nantes and Bordeaux being the other two), La Rochelle was the busiest and most profitable for slavers. The slave trade was officially abolished with the Revolution, but Napoleon brought it back at the end of the 18th century (to strengthen the French presence in North America and share in the profits from the plantations). It wasn't until 1848 that slavery was officially abolished in France, a consequence of various military defeats on American soil and revolts in places like Haiti, rather than a realignment of France's moral compass.
From the late 1500's when the French began slave trading, until its abolitions, the French brought 1.25 million African blacks to French colonies in the Caribbean. Many French family fortunes were 'earned' this way . . . the museum audio guide relates that the owner of the house that now includes this museum was a slaver.
On an upbeat note, the museum has a stunning collection of the photographs of Edward Curtis. I looked at this one and then looked again with that 'I know this place' feeling.
No, it couldn't be . . . but it is!! An early 1900's Curtis photo of the San Xavier Mission which is about 10 miles from where we live. Here it is hanging in a museum in La Rochelle, France!
We've loved our wander around the harbor and the old city, but it's a sober pair who make their way back to the car park.
