Thursday, December 1, 2016

Barrydale - Definitely Our Kind of Town!

If we were to even think about moving to South Africa, Barrydale would be right up there as one of the first towns we'd consider.  It is an absolutely charming, funky, artsy town with the most delightful architecture and a great mix of folks.  We are both smitten.  Maybe it started on the road into Barrydale . . . we had to make a quick stop at one of South Africa's iconic roadside attractions: Ronnie's Sex Shop.  Great story.

Ronnie was a farmer who ran a modest produce stand from which he sold his farm's output along with a few curios and such.  It was a living but not much more.  Then one night when a few of his mates had a bit too much of the local brew, they went out to Ronnie's Shop with a bucket of paint and added the word 'Sex' to its name.


And the rest, as the saying goes, is history.  People lined up to pull off the highway and check it out.  A sex shop??  Of course, everything inside was the same - produce and whatnot - but these same mates had hurried off to the local thrift shop and bought every bra in sight (probably absconded with a few from local clotheslines as well), autographed them, and hung them in front of the counter.  It didn't take long, and Ronnie's morphed from a sleepy farm stand into an attraction.

Meanwhile, the lookee loos needed food and drink, so burgers and beer quickly replaced fruits and veggies.  The autographed bras over the bar idea caught on quickly, and ladies began leaving their donations to add to the collection.  Now Ronnie's Sex Shop is featured in nearly every book about driving around South Africa.  The 'sex shop' doesn't sell anything but tee shirts and the musical nostalgia is free. The Eagles singing about the Hotel California took us all back many decades.

This isn't Ronnie - it's his friend Peter who fills in for Ronnie on Mondays - and I wouldn't be surprised if he was one of the nighttime painters long ago.  And, no, I didn't leave my bra!


We've booked a 'boutique farm accommodation' (sounds like an oxymoron but it isn't) - the Blue Cow - and it's delightful.  Each cottage is separate and beautifully outfitted, set in the middle of a gigantic farm holding that goes back six generations.  Our host, Bertus, supervises the farm operation and the accommodations, and his Mom, Avinka, devotes her considerable energy and enthusiasm to her Blue Cow Restaurant which is set on Barrydale's 'waterfront'.  Well, it's more like a giant carp and duck pond but that's just fine - it works!

Avinka, chatty and very outgoing, prides herself on her menu, especially her baked wonders, and we have several meals there.  First one, chicken cheesecake - yes, I know, it sounds odd bordering on weird but you haven't tasted it.  It's divine!


And then there are her desserts - heaven on a plate.  Here we are with one apple pie, one cheesecake (half slice) and one lemon meringue (yes, Tim had half of my lemon meringue pie).


And each dessert plate has a cow outline in powdered sugar!  Way, way too cute!



Off to do some exploring.  Deb has checked all the 'must see' spots, and one is The Magpie, a local art gallery.  Just stepping onto the porch I sense we're in for a treat.  There is a chandelier made entirely out of recycled plastic bottles of different colors, all arrayed in a huge round ball of something.  By the time I got inside,  I was so dazzled, so gaga, I forgot to take photos!  Fortunately, Tim had the presence of mind to take one of me with Shane, one of the owners.


He started life as a preacher, was rejected because of his sexual orientation, became a social worker, and then, with a couple of creative friends, began experimenting with recycling trash into art.  And then the rest was magic.  There are four of them in Magpie (it's full name is The Mischief of the Magpie) and their installations - chandeliers primarily - are now all over the world.  One Magpie partner is in Berlin supervising an installation, and Shane proudly showed me a newspaper article on one of their most famous customers:  Barack and Michelle Obama, who have purchased two chandeliers for the residence.  http://www.mediaclubsouthafrica.com/land-and-people/1306-obamas-trashy-treasures-from-sa-

These creations are pure genius with a strong dash of whimsy, and they're all made from trash or just stuff that people no longer have a use for.  It's hard to describe what these are like, but one hanging in the gallery was made entirely of old tea cups and saucers and teapots.  Another was all costume jewelry that would otherwise be consigned to a junk drawer or the local thrift shop.  Magpie's creations have also been bought by Steven Speilberg, Michelle Pfeiffer, Dustin Hoffman, and Rupert Murdoch.  Their web site is low key and modest; they self-identify as a 'socially conscious art collective':  http://www.magpieartcollective.com/home/4592807478

They are brilliantly clever and absolutely captivating.  Can you tell I was awe struck??  And what's even neater is that they are partnering with the local school to teach the children how to make puppets - life size - and every year on Remembrance Day (December 16th) the town celebrates with a parade and the children display their creations.  I absolutely loved this place and had to be dragged away!!

Great food, enchanting art, lovely digs, and a sex shop - ahhhh!  I love Barrydale.