Tuesday, January 10, 2017

Fossils and Birds of the Western Cape

Not far from our guesthouse is the West Coast Fossil Park, another trip back in time.  This one boasts one of the most spectacular collections of prehistoric animals - in situ - thanks to a flood that trapped a number of them.  Most have been left where they fell, making for a mother lode of fossils.  Our guide Wendy, describing the fossils we're seeing . . .


This jawbone is from a giraffe . . .  the animals drowned, were swept up by the flood waters, and deposited in pieces all over this valley.

- a short-necked, long-horned giraffe.  Quite odd!


Wendy explaining the contents of this area of the dig.


Another must see sight near Pater Noster is the Western Cape National Park, renowned for its birds.  We are not disappointed.


A short walk from a parking area is a 'bird hide' (never been in one of these!) and within seconds this charming fellow makes an appearance, within arm's reach.  I'm no birder but he was absolutely beautiful and fearless!


And a flock of flamingoes which remained in the shallows, . . .

Then it's off to an idyllic little beach who there are actually of couple of houseboats on moorings!  Too bad we didn't have our swimsuits in hand.


And finally a trip to Lambert's Bay about an hour north and home of the Western Cape Gannet Colony.  I don't know if you can call a flock of 30,000 gannets a colony - maybe more like a city.  These birds are absolutely amazing!


We watch spellbound as the birds circle, announcing to their mates that they're 'comin' home' After a few circles, they but on the brakes and make what looks like a most ungraceful landing but landing in this so small feat!  And these are all breeding pairs!  We're so fortunate to have come when they're here as two months from now they will all have migrated to Mozambique or Angola.  Now the chicks are nearly full grown but still being fed by the parents regurgitating the fruits of their hunt.


Gannets dive bomb toward the water at upwards of 30mph and in the last few seconds before they hit the surface they tuck their wings into their body, become an underwater guided missile, and after scooping up unsuspecting fish make their way to the surface and fly off.  Amazing!

This imaginative sculpture - St somebody or Other - guards the entrance to the harbor as well as the gannet colony - made me want to get home and start creating something clever with all our 'treasures'!  Yes, there is still an active fishing industry in Lambert's Bay and we have a fabulous lunch.

Time for us to head to Hermanus to celebrate Christmas and New Year's - and, my birthday!

Our Father Which Art in South Africa. . .

I'm always amazed at how much I don't know and frequently I'm even more amazed by what I think I know that turns out to be wrong.  Take the first explorers to set foot in southern Africa.  The Dutch in search of a spice route to India - right?  Wrong!  It was the Portugese, led by that intrepid explorer, Bartholomew Dias, who eventually made it to . . . . but I get ahead of myself . . .

Old Bartholomew stopped off on the west coast of Africa, about 100 miles or so from Cape Town (although he didn't know it was Cape Town or how far away it was), stayed on for a while, and dubbed it 'Paternoster' - Our Father.   And so it remains today, a sweet, seaside town, kind of an Rehoboth or Rocky Point for Cape Towners who want an escape from the city.  Especially during school holidays which last almost a month starting in mid-December.  We're right in the midst of them and to borrow one of Deb's favorite words, it is 'heaving'!


We're tucked into an absolutely delightful B&B a few miles out of town, owned by Marion and Deon, a German-South African couple who have created a truly first class retreat.  There are only four units, and ours has a 270 degree view over the mountains and ocean.  We've got lightning fast internet, wonderful cable tv, a gorgeous bathroom, comfy bedding, and a hot water bottle which feels heavenly on my still sore back.  And we get breakfast, bargain laundry, and great tips on where to go and what to see! 

Our room is on the upper left and Tim has finally figured out to make the incredible shrinking woman!
Marion and Deon have a delightfully wacky sense of humor and have posed trolls in various places, in unexpected poses!

Scattered throughout the property are what I've dubbed 'cuddle boxes' which we take advantage of!


We also take a moonlit dip in the Fred Flinstone hot tub (a wood-fired snorkel tub) . . . 


. . . and consider having a braai in a wigwam, compliments of Marion and Deon's trip to the American SW and their fascination with Indians.  They also have a double wigwam, complete with bathroom for those who want to really do the Indian thing (well, maybe the bathroom is a bit non-Indian)!


Off to the gorgeous beach and our first stroll along the Atlantic Ocean.


There were thousands of these creatures right near the shore and we were fascinated by them.  As soon as we touched them or dug at them with a mussel shell, they sunk beneath the sand.  If we continued to search for them below the sand, they kept burrowing deeper and deeper . . . 


And birds in abundance . . . those are all mussels on the rocks!


We meet up with Sybil and her twin Sabina for a really chatty lunch where we catch them up on all travels since we last saw Sybil in Jo'burg.


Our father - delightful wee town!