We spent six weeks in France in the late spring of 2013, had a fabulous time, but left a couple of important sights 'unseen'; Versailles was one of them. Fortunately, we've come on a day when it's not mobbed with tourists but still warm enough to be enjoyable. This is definitely the crown jewel in France's attractions . . . just walking up to it provokes a jaw-dropping response from both of us. What an incredible sight! Yes, everything you see in this photo is part of the Palace.
A bit of history before the photos . . . Versailles was originally a somewhat modest hunting lodge, a favorite spot of Louis XIV's father. Louis XIV became King in 1715, and once he attained adulthood, made some radical changes, including moving the seat of government here from the Louvre in Paris only 10 miles away. Why did he do this? Not surprisingly, his reasons were both political and personal. He was tired of the stuffy, sniping environment in Paris, and he loved the outdoors. It also gave him the setting and opportunity to consolidate power; all his nobles were 'invited' to join him at Versailles which became both the royal residence and the seat of power. Smart move, Louis.
The nobles, now living a life of enforced idleness, couldn't interfere with Louis's ventures. France and French culture became 'the' culture of Europe. Everyone learned French, imitated French fashion, hair styles, architecture, and French customs (including kissing!) and when you said 'the king' you meant Louis XIV, no one else. Fortunately, Louis was what we would probably call a good guy. He had the common touch but was a true Renaissance man. He was an outstanding musician, horseman, statesman, patron of the arts, and what we would now term 'eye candy'. The guy had it all, but he was also approachable, a good listener, and according to the audio-guide, even the common folk loved him. No wonder that he sat on the throne for 70 years! Known as 'The Sun King', Louis spread life and warmth to all he touched.
Nobody has any memoirs of the peasants who probably toiled endlessly to make The Sun King's life one of ease and luxury so who knows if the love of the common folk is true or not. It's a nice fiction, and Versailles is certainly one of the architectural wonders of Europe, if not the world. We all know that his grandson, Louis XVI, did not enjoy any kind of affection from the common folk. It's rumored that when confronted with the graffiti signaling widespread unrest in the empire, he lost sleep over the fact that it contained misspellings!
Enough history, now some photos . . .
The first thing you see after clearing the security screening (not quite TSA but pretty rigorous) and entering the Palace is the Royal Chapel. Apparently, Louis was a stickler for protocol and went to chapel regularly; the members of his household had to line up in a certain order and Louis would not make his grand entrance until everyone else was inside.
This room, part of the State Apartments was another jaw-dropper. The painting on the wall, a gift from an Italian painter (sorry, I forgot his name) is huge; it depicts the meal at Simon's home when an unknown woman (Mary Magdalene?) whom the other guests call a sinner, washes Jesus's feet with her tears, dries them with her hair, and then anoints them with oil. This painting must be 20' by 30' - it's enormous and very impressive. To set it off, Louis ordered the ceiling painted with a series of scenes from Jesus's life and the combination is amazing - rivals the Sistine Chapel ceiling.
A closeup of the painting, above and the opposite side of the ceiling, below.
The famous Hall of Mirrors. The French were beautifully dressed, perfectly coiffed, and for the most part a pretty good looking lot. They loved to look at themselves; the more mirrors the better. Mirrors were pretty much a luxury then; this hall of 17 arched mirrors matching 17 windows was extraordinary for its time. The mirrors reflect the garden views which can be seen through the matching windows. It's sobering to remember that the Treaty of Versailles, ending World War I, was signed here.
The ceiling's pretty impressive too.
And the boudoir of The Sun King. Gold, gold, and more gold . . . nobody's explained what those wee stools were for.
I think this was the make-out room (that was from the guide).
View from one of the corridors. If I remember correctly, there were something like 1500 members of Louis's 'court' stationed here.
Every door and window came with one of these ornate latches. Amazing to think of the time and person-hours that went into building this place. Every one of these window latches was hand forged.
And the Palace from the rear, as we get ready to board the shuttle to Marie Antoinette's Petit Trianon Palace.
After Versailles, this seems like a modest noble's home. Louis XVI gave this to Marie Antoinette and she immediately put her stamp on it and pretty much made him persona-non-grata.
She loved music; she grew up in Vienna, one of 16 children (yes, 16) of Empress Maria Theresa and Emperor Francis I. Mozart was often invited to their house (Schoenbrunn Palace) to play for the family. Louis was a bookworm, not musical at all. Marie's pals would come from Paris, and shared musical evenings with her.
This sitting room was equipped with an ingeniously-designed set of moveable shutters which allowed her to shut out anyone looking in from the outside - Louis?
I couldn't resist a photo of this - the only commode we've seen this whole trip, in any palace, chateau, fort, anywhere! No doubt, this had a door; now it just has a plexiglass front.
Marie's boudoir - pretty modest, very tasteful.
Our intent was to visit Marie's 'hamlet' which she had built so she and her children could enjoy the pleasures of rural living (rumor has it that the sheep were washed and perfumed every morning). But it was starting to drizzle and definitely getting colder; not the time to be wandering around outside. Just one historical tidbit (from the guide); in the mid-1960's, many of the hamlet's structures were in disrepair. Guess who stepped up to do the restoration?? Yup, John D. Rockefeller and his children! Thanks again Rockefellers.
Tomorrow we leave our rural 'chateau' and head for 'breh-tah' (Brittany) and a visit with Caroline and Julie. Ticked off two of the 'see on our next trip to France' boxes. Both brilliant!!
A bit of history before the photos . . . Versailles was originally a somewhat modest hunting lodge, a favorite spot of Louis XIV's father. Louis XIV became King in 1715, and once he attained adulthood, made some radical changes, including moving the seat of government here from the Louvre in Paris only 10 miles away. Why did he do this? Not surprisingly, his reasons were both political and personal. He was tired of the stuffy, sniping environment in Paris, and he loved the outdoors. It also gave him the setting and opportunity to consolidate power; all his nobles were 'invited' to join him at Versailles which became both the royal residence and the seat of power. Smart move, Louis.
The nobles, now living a life of enforced idleness, couldn't interfere with Louis's ventures. France and French culture became 'the' culture of Europe. Everyone learned French, imitated French fashion, hair styles, architecture, and French customs (including kissing!) and when you said 'the king' you meant Louis XIV, no one else. Fortunately, Louis was what we would probably call a good guy. He had the common touch but was a true Renaissance man. He was an outstanding musician, horseman, statesman, patron of the arts, and what we would now term 'eye candy'. The guy had it all, but he was also approachable, a good listener, and according to the audio-guide, even the common folk loved him. No wonder that he sat on the throne for 70 years! Known as 'The Sun King', Louis spread life and warmth to all he touched.
Nobody has any memoirs of the peasants who probably toiled endlessly to make The Sun King's life one of ease and luxury so who knows if the love of the common folk is true or not. It's a nice fiction, and Versailles is certainly one of the architectural wonders of Europe, if not the world. We all know that his grandson, Louis XVI, did not enjoy any kind of affection from the common folk. It's rumored that when confronted with the graffiti signaling widespread unrest in the empire, he lost sleep over the fact that it contained misspellings!
Enough history, now some photos . . .
This room, part of the State Apartments was another jaw-dropper. The painting on the wall, a gift from an Italian painter (sorry, I forgot his name) is huge; it depicts the meal at Simon's home when an unknown woman (Mary Magdalene?) whom the other guests call a sinner, washes Jesus's feet with her tears, dries them with her hair, and then anoints them with oil. This painting must be 20' by 30' - it's enormous and very impressive. To set it off, Louis ordered the ceiling painted with a series of scenes from Jesus's life and the combination is amazing - rivals the Sistine Chapel ceiling.
A closeup of the painting, above and the opposite side of the ceiling, below.
The famous Hall of Mirrors. The French were beautifully dressed, perfectly coiffed, and for the most part a pretty good looking lot. They loved to look at themselves; the more mirrors the better. Mirrors were pretty much a luxury then; this hall of 17 arched mirrors matching 17 windows was extraordinary for its time. The mirrors reflect the garden views which can be seen through the matching windows. It's sobering to remember that the Treaty of Versailles, ending World War I, was signed here.
The ceiling's pretty impressive too.
Every door and window came with one of these ornate latches. Amazing to think of the time and person-hours that went into building this place. Every one of these window latches was hand forged.
And the Palace from the rear, as we get ready to board the shuttle to Marie Antoinette's Petit Trianon Palace.
After Versailles, this seems like a modest noble's home. Louis XVI gave this to Marie Antoinette and she immediately put her stamp on it and pretty much made him persona-non-grata.
She loved music; she grew up in Vienna, one of 16 children (yes, 16) of Empress Maria Theresa and Emperor Francis I. Mozart was often invited to their house (Schoenbrunn Palace) to play for the family. Louis was a bookworm, not musical at all. Marie's pals would come from Paris, and shared musical evenings with her.
This sitting room was equipped with an ingeniously-designed set of moveable shutters which allowed her to shut out anyone looking in from the outside - Louis?
I couldn't resist a photo of this - the only commode we've seen this whole trip, in any palace, chateau, fort, anywhere! No doubt, this had a door; now it just has a plexiglass front.
Marie's boudoir - pretty modest, very tasteful.
Our intent was to visit Marie's 'hamlet' which she had built so she and her children could enjoy the pleasures of rural living (rumor has it that the sheep were washed and perfumed every morning). But it was starting to drizzle and definitely getting colder; not the time to be wandering around outside. Just one historical tidbit (from the guide); in the mid-1960's, many of the hamlet's structures were in disrepair. Guess who stepped up to do the restoration?? Yup, John D. Rockefeller and his children! Thanks again Rockefellers.
Tomorrow we leave our rural 'chateau' and head for 'breh-tah' (Brittany) and a visit with Caroline and Julie. Ticked off two of the 'see on our next trip to France' boxes. Both brilliant!!
