The Backwaters of Kerala

We cannot leave Kerala without seeing the backwaters.  The choices include renting a houseboat (an exploding tourist industry in Kerala), spending a day on a small rented boat or canoe, or taking the Kerala State Ferry.  We opt for the ferry from Alleppey to Kollam, about 85 km.  We leave at 10:30 a.m. and are due to reach Kollam around 6:30pm, with a stop for lunch.  

When we think ferries and canals, we think Venice (CA and Italy).  I think the Kerala ferries are all circa 1968 but, like so many things in this wonderful state, they are old, dirty, battered, ugly but they run, on time, and are cheap.  (And every ticket gets written down in a station master’s book!) This ride costs 600rupees for both of us – about $9.  We’re one of the last passengers to board so we get seats in the rear, noisy but reasonably comfortable.  There’s also an upstairs deck but the covering is very low and you have to kind of crab walk to get to the seats.

Photo from the back of the ferry.  Can you spot the two dead rats floating in the water?  

Note the campaign posters overhead.  Countrywide elections are April 14th and candidates are competing for the one billion Indian votes (yes, that's one billion).

The ferry interior.

Leaving the ferry canal.

Soon we’re into a wider canal, one of many we take on our journey.  

And everywhere, as in all over India, women beating clothes on rocks and kids bathing.  

These long boats were the only way to get across these canals, and to transport goods and people.  I even saw a motor scooter balanced precariously on one of these boats.

Friendly locals.

One of the feeder canals - old bridge in the background; new bridge taking shape in the foreground.

One of many houseboats 'yards' along the way.

Approaching one of many waterfront mansions.

A more typical dwelling.

Nap time . . . 

Can it be??  A lock??  Complete with fisherman!

We stop for lunch - 20 minutes the ferryman tells us.  Twenty minutes??  There must be 50 or 60 of us on this ferry; how are we going to eat lunch in 20 minutes?  Simple:  we all get a big plastic leaf-like thing onto which is piled a scoop of rice, three condiments, and a sauce on top of the rice.  And, yes, that is Tim eating with his hands!!!  Total cost - 200 rupees for both of us.  

And 20 minutes later, we're all back on the ferry, ready to go again.

It wouldn't be a trip anywhere in India without the ever-present poverty quilt of tarpaulins, home to so many.

Our ‘car and driver’ are waiting at the dock, along with Haksar (lovely surprise!) who’s come to greet us and take us back to Sea Splendour and Varkala.  Feels like coming home!

Eating and Drinking Like a Local

We make our way to town and find the restaurant recommended by Biju.  This is definitely a local restaurant.  We are the only people eating with implements.  I like to play with my food – push it around my plate; if it’s pizza, fold it over on itself just so before taking the first perfect bite; if it’s fried chicken, getting that last little bit of juicy meat from the leg or thigh or wing.  In other words, some foods it’s okay to have some fun with it before actually putting it in my mouth. 

But eating an entire meal with my hands . . . and only with the right hand . . . I can’t do it or do it very well.  I find myself staring at everyone else in the restaurant, fascinated by their efficiency.   

There is definitely an art to this.  Let me see if I can describe how it’s done.  First you start with a big pile of rice, somewhat sticky but not real Chinese sticky rice.  Then you take a bit of the veggies or side dish and dump it on top of the rice.  Mix it up (with your fingers of course) so you have a ball of rice and stuff, smush it around a bit so it sticks together, and then convey the whole thing to your mouth which is about two inches above the pile of rice.  Sounds simple enough.  Not.  I usually end up with about 6 grains of rice in my mouth along with a tiny bit of veggies and a big mess on my fingers.  I’ve watched Indians eat a whole meal like this while I’m still struggling with the first half cup of rice and veggies!

BTW, this meal was delicious and cost us about $3 including two scoops of ice cream for dessert (that must always come with a spoon!)

The other thing I have not perfected is drinking out of the one liter water bottles (or common cups) without having my lips touch the mouth of the bottle.  This is a skill that every Indian must perfect as soon as they’re weaned.  (I just had this irreverent image of an breast-feeding Indian mother starting the training for this skill . . . )  Restaurants often have a metal jug of water on the table and several metal cups (keeps the water colder).  Everyone uses the same cups! 

So, this is how you do it.  Start with the bottle or cup about three inches above and out from your face. Tilt your head back so your mouth is almost straight up in the air and under the bottle and – this is the hard part – tilt the water bottle or cup at just the right angle so that the water flows out of the bottle and into your mouth (about a 3-4 inch stream).  Try it.  It’s hard.  I managed to drench myself any number of times. And choke. The closest I could come was having the top of the bottle barely touch my bottom lip.  I didn’t even try the cup.   

We’re off tomorrow on the Kerala State Ferry to Kollam.  Another adventure!