On to Udaipur

Our original plan was to take a bus to Udaipur but getting bus tickets is a bit more uncertain than train tickets (we’re expert at that now) so we decide to splurge and take a private car.  Anu and Bantu had found us a driver making the return trip so the cost is manageable and off we go.  The driver is young (I learn he’s only 29!) but looks 40 and his parents are 59 and 60.  He asks me a few minutes into the drive ‘How many in your family (that’s everyone, children, grandchildren, sisters, brothers, the whole gang!)? And then he tells me everyone in his family and that his father is a tuk tuk driver – god, what a hard way to make a living!  Then he asks me ‘How old you are?’ When I tell him, he seems stunned and then asks Tim’s age – also stunned. 

Uneventful but long drive to Udaipur.  We decided to do the car because the route would be more scenic and I guess it is . . . we climb through a mountain pass with some hair-raising turns and our driver nervously beeping behind a bus he wants to pass!!  The roads are reasonably good and this area is formerly the mountain retreat for nearby rajahs and now the site of many ‘full service resorts’ complete with tiger safaris.  We are behind a jeep that must have 20 people in it (according to our driver who tells us the most he's seen is 50 people in a vehicle like this!!) and a camel by the side of the road.

Arrive in Udaipur (a beautiful city) and go to our accommodation – whoops!  My first boo-boo – it’s a 3-4 story walk up!!  We don’t even go up . . . our driver offers to take us to another place he knows (isn’t this something we’re never supposed to do??) and we end up right in the heart of the action.  Tim checks out the available rooms, and we agree on a lovely (‘the penthouse’) room right at the top (5 stories up with an elevator).  The restaurant is right outside our door and our three nights turn out to be a most magical stay.

We’re no sooner settled than we meet a fellow traveler, Paul, from the UK.  Well not actually from anywhere!  He and his wife are ‘homeless’!  What a fantastic story they have – sold everything, rented their home, and took off – for 18 months.  We get on famously and later meet Debbie, his wife, who’s been a wee bit sick but recovering.  Their first time in India and they are a wealth of information about long-term travel and inspire us, once again, to take the big plunge.  The four of us at the rooftop restaurant.

Ya Gotta Love this Country!!

First stop this morning, the HFDC bank somewhere ‘downtown’ where we hope Tim’s ATM card has had a safe night.  The 'bank' not much more than a store front guarded by an aging soldier (?) with an even more aged gun!  I take his photo; he’s delighted when I show it to him. 

Tim tells his story to a bank employee.  First question, ’What time did you lose(?) your card?’ Huh?  That matters?  ’12:30, maybe 1:00 pm yesterday.’  Then another employee turns around in his chair and opens what looks like a tin box made for spices (with the inevitable huge lock) and removes a pile of bank cards – maybe 25 in all!! 

Tim shows him the copy of his passport and they retrieve the BECU card – yippee!!  But they want his passport and Indian visa – ‘How about my AZ driver’s license?’  OK – that will do and off they go, ATM card, and license in hand.  Tim then has to do a practice run, asking for an account balance, using the card – and he’s cleared.  But before the card and license can be returned – the most important part of any transaction in India must be completed – recording the event in a giant book (‘Retained Card Register’ which could date to 1967).  Finally, the card and license are back in Tim’s wallet!  Now for the ATM withdrawal which started this whole thing.

We are instructed to wait outside with bank guard and his pal.  The machine is being refreshed with cash and that takes a while . . . a long while.  Meanwhile, chai wallah shows up and our armed guard insists we have chai (Tim refuses, I accept) – his treat!  You gotta love this place – it’s so screwy, inefficient, sweet, funny, and utterly unpredictable. 

We’re so elated with this outcome we head off to spend our rupees!  Maharini Art Textiles here we come – recommended by LP and our hostess, Anu (who assures us they get no commission from the recommendation) and they sell quality merchandise with no haggling (maybe a wee discount at the end but that’s it).  All true – this place is amazing – 8 floors piled high with textiles of every hue, fabric, blend, size . . . it is overwhelming.  

It’s a Jain (pronounced ‘Jane’ - remember our visit to the Jain temples?) family operation and one of the sons, Bunny (yes, that's his name) asks what we are interested in.  Bedspreads, table cloths, pillow covers, hangings – and two hours later, we’ve amassed about 25 lbs of some of the most fabulous stuff and arranged for it to be shipped home – all for the grand total, including FedEx, of around $250.  Unbelievable.  Lovely experience all around.  Photos of a few of our purchases and Bunny.

He is the the third generation of his family running this shop and very proud of their role in promoting Rajasthani and tribal fabric art.  We are a bit early for the huge spring fabric fair, held at the fort - called the gypsy fair!  Weavers from all over Rajasthan come to this as well as buyers worldwide - no wonder.  Tim and I were utterly blown away by this place and can't wait for our FedEx package from India.

Perfect end to our stay in Jodhpur.  We've enjoyed this city, despite Tim's feeling poorly and have been touched again and again by the kindness of the people.  Our goodnight Jodhpur photo from our rooftop.   (Michelle and Tom: this one's for you - thanks!!)