The One and Only Bamboo Railway

When you read the description of the Bamboo Railway in the LP guide, your first thought is  - huh??  That was our response but Paul and Debbie, our professional advisors, insisted we do this.  Let me see if I can describe this and add photos as I go . . .

This is a 'major' attraction in Battambang; it's at the end of a pot-holed, dirt road about 20" out of town.  A small settlement appears to have grown up around it, and a very official-looking man charges us $5 each to ride the rails.  It's early and we're two of only a couple of riders.  We're told to hop on our own 'car' and, of course, smile for the camera.

Our driver - engineer?

A little background on this 'railway' - it was built over 100 years ago by the French to transport rice to market.  Maybe it was the departure of the French (Cambodia declared its independence in 1953) or more efficient forms of transport, but it fell into disuse to transport rice some time ago until someone realized its unique tourist potential . . .

The driver starts the engine with a pull cord and has a braking mechanism (that pole in his left hand) that somehow regulates the speed (I think that fan belt has something to do with it).  Now here's the amazing part - there's only one set of tracks.  When you meet a train coming towards you, passengers get off,  and the two drivers literally take the 'train' apart.

The platform gets laid on the ground, the wheel base(s) comes off, tossed on the ground, and the priority train goes ahead.  The 'on' train driver then helps the 'off' driver reassemble his train and everybody's on the rails again.

The 'on-off' protocol is that the outbound train always gives way to the home-bound train so everyone seems to know (and follow) the rules.

The whole journey takes about an hour - 20" to the terminus, 10" to walk around the stalls set up for tourists (Tim manages to find a brick-making factory down a short dirt road),

and 20" for the return journey.  Tim thinks we get up to 25-30 mph on the straightaway!  Pretty good clip to be hurtling through the bush.  We do make one stop to survey the rice fields (they don't call them paddies) and check out the fishing techniques (simple purse seine idea operated by man-power)

And then we're back where we started.

We spend a few minutes talking to one of the drivers whose English is quite good (many people we meet speak little or no English), and he tells us that the Bamboo Railway's days may be limited.  The Chinese are planning to close it down and in its place build a 'real' railway that would take passengers to Phnom Penh and probably other points south.   He also tells us that 'management' of the railway is a daily perk for as many as 40 local men.  Whoever is the 'manager' for the day pockets the proceeds and drivers depend on tips from tourists.  

More of today's adventures in the next blog . . .

More Than A Little Bit of France (and Italy) in Cambodia

Our friends and travel advisors, Paul and Debbie, have insisted we stop in Battambang - glad we listened to them.  We negotiate the rather funky ferry terminal (which meant scrambling off the boat via the front deck, making our way up concrete steps hanging over the river bank), we're met with an Indian-level of tuk tuk drivers waiting for customers).  Our very own hotel-dispatched driver is there, and soon we're on our way to our hotel, the King Fy (we say 'fie' but are told it's pronounced 'fee').  It's been a very, very long day but we engage our tuk tuk driver, Buntha. for a tour the following day.
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We've decided to check out the French colonial part of town (we're across the Bassac River somewhat in the 'burbs'), including the 'art' quarter.  By way of background, Battambang (pronounced BattamBONG) is the second largest city in Cambodia, and prior to the Khmer Rouge, was considered the intellectual, artistic, and cultural heart of Cambodia.  Pol Pot took care of that distinction and, oddly, the last remnants of his soldiers fled to the surrounding hills.  It wasn't until the late 90's that the last of them were rooted out (some people think there are still some of them in hiding).

We find a couple of struggling art 'galleries' and land at the Choco L'Art for a much-needed French press coffee.  Soon it's time to eat and we head to Daido, back across the river. It's like stepping into another world.  Daido is owned by an Italian surgeon, Nicola, who came to Cambodia about 10 years ago to assist in Battambang's hospital and liked it so much he stayed . . . and opened a restaurant.  We were dazzled by the setting, the service, and, of course, the food!

Nothing quite gets Tim's attention like a good bowl of pasta with a pomidoro sauce and a side of grilled peppers in anchovies.  I had the pumpkin gnocchi - superb!  Lovely end to a most intriguing day.

Tomorrow, the Bamboo Railway!!