Our friends and travel advisors, Paul and Debbie, have insisted we stop in Battambang - glad we listened to them. We negotiate the rather funky ferry terminal (which meant scrambling off the boat via the front deck, making our way up concrete steps hanging over the river bank), we're met with an Indian-level of tuk tuk drivers waiting for customers). Our very own hotel-dispatched driver is there, and soon we're on our way to our hotel, the King Fy (we say 'fie' but are told it's pronounced 'fee'). It's been a very, very long day but we engage our tuk tuk driver, Buntha. for a tour the following day.
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We've decided to check out the French colonial part of town (we're across the Bassac River somewhat in the 'burbs'), including the 'art' quarter. By way of background, Battambang (pronounced BattamBONG) is the second largest city in Cambodia, and prior to the Khmer Rouge, was considered the intellectual, artistic, and cultural heart of Cambodia. Pol Pot took care of that distinction and, oddly, the last remnants of his soldiers fled to the surrounding hills. It wasn't until the late 90's that the last of them were rooted out (some people think there are still some of them in hiding).
We find a couple of struggling art 'galleries' and land at the Choco L'Art for a much-needed French press coffee. Soon it's time to eat and we head to Daido, back across the river. It's like stepping into another world. Daido is owned by an Italian surgeon, Nicola, who came to Cambodia about 10 years ago to assist in Battambang's hospital and liked it so much he stayed . . . and opened a restaurant. We were dazzled by the setting, the service, and, of course, the food!
Nothing quite gets Tim's attention like a good bowl of pasta with a pomidoro sauce and a side of grilled peppers in anchovies. I had the pumpkin gnocchi - superb! Lovely end to a most intriguing day.
Tomorrow, the Bamboo Railway!!
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We've decided to check out the French colonial part of town (we're across the Bassac River somewhat in the 'burbs'), including the 'art' quarter. By way of background, Battambang (pronounced BattamBONG) is the second largest city in Cambodia, and prior to the Khmer Rouge, was considered the intellectual, artistic, and cultural heart of Cambodia. Pol Pot took care of that distinction and, oddly, the last remnants of his soldiers fled to the surrounding hills. It wasn't until the late 90's that the last of them were rooted out (some people think there are still some of them in hiding).
We find a couple of struggling art 'galleries' and land at the Choco L'Art for a much-needed French press coffee. Soon it's time to eat and we head to Daido, back across the river. It's like stepping into another world. Daido is owned by an Italian surgeon, Nicola, who came to Cambodia about 10 years ago to assist in Battambang's hospital and liked it so much he stayed . . . and opened a restaurant. We were dazzled by the setting, the service, and, of course, the food!
Nothing quite gets Tim's attention like a good bowl of pasta with a pomidoro sauce and a side of grilled peppers in anchovies. I had the pumpkin gnocchi - superb! Lovely end to a most intriguing day.
Tomorrow, the Bamboo Railway!!
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