The Kuntshofpassage or How Artists and a Lot of Paint and Tiles Created Magic

Our host and hostess, Stefan and Julia, have enthusiastically recommended we visit the Kuntshofpassage.  It's a bit of a walk from our flat but absolutely well worth it.  It's a series of courtyards in our neighborhood (Neustadt - the New city) that are absolute magic.

The courtyards are a mix of private residences, charming cafes, and small, boutiquey shops.  Absolutely wonderful!!

Everywhere we look, there's something whimsical and wonderful.

I am intrigued at the mosaic designs embedded in the stucco, seamlessly and obviously impervious to the elements.  And many of these are several stories up . . .

What a magical place!  Makes me want to start on our backyard walls as soon as we get home!!

An homage to Africa . . .

A whole new take on flakiness . . .

I dubbed this a Rube Goldberg guttering system; I think it's officially called the Wall of Water Music.

Our last meal in Dresden is at a delightful Peruvian-Italian restaurant in our neighborhood.  Tim persuades the chef to make him pasta putanesca (not on the menu)  and I opt for the carbonara.  Absolutely fabulous meal!!  We were so hungry that I totally forgot to take a photo of our dinners . . . photo of the marquee.

Our waiter, a dreadlocked young man with a set of biceps that were bigger around than our thighs, asks where we're from and with a big grin announces he's from Koobah.  Cuba??  We learn that when East Germany was under Russian control, citizens from other Communist countries (like Cuba and North Vietnam) could come to East Germany for three years. They lived in segregated housing and worked 'like dogs'; what they got in return was a break from home and training at a German company (this from our host, Stefan, born and raised in East Berlin). In 1990, any 'foreigner' there under a 'work program' got a German visa and eventually citizenship - they didn't go 'home'.  There are a disproportionate number of Cubans and Vietnamese now in this part of Germany!

 Our host, Stefan, and his wife, Julia, are a very interesting couple.  Stefan, an East Berliner, had a relatively privileged childhood and now runs a company that manufactures high-end equipment for processing honey, on a commercial scale.  Julia is from the Ukraine and not yet a German citizen although she's been here for six years. She's an RN and her mother, who's still in the Ukraine, is an MD.  Until this year, Julia and Stefan have gone to the Ukraine for yearly visits with her Mom. The Ukrainian government is now requiring all nurses to register for military service and have been to the Mom's home, questioning why Julia has not registered.

We ask why her Mom cannot emigrate to Germany (there are about 800,000 Syrians en route to Germany as I write this) and learn that the Ukraine is one of the few countries whose citizens cannot get a visa to Germany.  She could probably get in via Estonia or Latvia but would be sent to a refugee camp . . . who knows where.

We have several fascinating conversations with Stefan whose English is superb (Julia's is almost non-existent).  Here is our wee 'Witches Cottage' on their property.  They have several apartments in their adjacent home, one of which was occupied by an opera singer who was appearing at the Dresden Opera.  We awoke one morning to the sounds of her practicing!!

Dresden has been interesting . . . neither of us knew that it had been in East Germany (I don't think we even thought about it) although we were both struck by the amount of graffiti on buildings in our neighborhood which is quite nice.  Our neighborhood was really homey, lots of young families, friendly people, and in general very authentic feeling (tourists are pretty unusual here).  We were kind of underwhelmed by the tourist part of the city but really enjoyed the Neustadt. We didn't use the car the whole time; we rode the trams which are marvelous and affordable.  Our sense from talking with Stefan was that they are still struggling even 25 years on.  Embargoes on farm exports to Russia have been a hardship; farmers are hurting.  And now the VW scandal will certainly have a huge negative impact on the whole country . . .

Tomorrow is a long drive, all the way across the country to Heidelberg, our last city before leaving Germany.  Maybe, just maybe, Tim will have his long-awaited grand prix experience on the autobahn!

Out of the Ashes and Rubble . . .

This iconic city on the Elbe is often cited as an example of a miraculous comeback after the devastating effects of Allied carpet bombing in February 1945. Most of the city lay in ruins after the War, but you would never know it today.  What's perhaps even more remarkable is that until 1990 it was part of East Germany and now, according to our host, Stefan, it is still struggling for economic parity with the rest of Germany.

Our first view of Dresden's Old City while crossing the Elbe on the city tram.

One of several entrances to the cobblestone walkways of the Old City.  And the crown jewel of the Old City - the Frauenkirche Cathedral.

We queue up at the side door for the first tour of the day.  Hundreds of us file inside and quietly take our seats in the pews.  A young woman emerges from one side of the altar, walks up to a podium in front of the congregation and talks for about five minutes about something . . . could have been a recipe for apfelkuchen for all we knew!  Yup, it was in German - lots of rapt faces around us so I guess it was a pretty compelling narrative.  A couple of photos before our group was encouraged to exit and make way for the next one.

This is, without a doubt, the most ornate Lutheran church either of us has ever seen.  This is sunglass city!  This is Liberace does Lutheranism!  

According to our LP guide, it's a faithful restoration. The East Germans left it a pile of rubble, as a war memorial.  After reunification in 1990, a grassroots movement helped raise funds to rebuild it, and it was dedicated in 2005, 60 years after the end of the War.

And just outside, Martin Luther surveying the plaza . . . 

One portion of the enormous plaza . . . 

Our second excursion of the day was to the Historiches Grunes Gewolbe (Historical Green Vault).
This was extraordinary and listed as one of the 'Must See' attractions and, of course, a no photo zone.  In fact, it is so closely monitored that the number of visitors at any one time is controlled and each visitor must pass through a 'dust lock' before entering the exhibits.  We were fortunate - no line, no delay, no back-up for the dust lock!  I think this link will take you to the web site.

http://www.skd.museum/

Looking at this totally modest entrance, you would never guess what's inside.

This was a series of 10 rooms of ever-increasing splendor that completely blow the top off  'over the top'.  Each room contained treasures amassed by German rulers over the centuries, starting with August the Strong in the Middle Ages.  One room was devoted to amber creations from court artisans as well as pieces brought home from afar.  I didn't know that amber is fossilized tree sap from a particular fir, the most desirable of which grow in the Baltic States and are known as 'Baltic gold'.

Another room was all ivory carvings, of such fineness and delicacy I could almost get over my revulsion at their source.  Yet another room was all ceremonial swords and their sheaths along with matching royal rings and bracelets.  Another room was bronze sculptures and statues that were so lifelike I was just itching to reach out and touch them!

I kept wondering what happened to all these treasures during the war . . . they had to have been taken to safe keeping somewhere.  The building itself, part of the enormous palace complex, was damaged but not destroyed during the war.  One of the audio guide segments describes the process of restoring and rebuilding portions of the display rooms.  (Note to self:  find out what happened to all these treasures during the war.)

Feeling saturated with Baroque and Renaissance gilt, thought we'd give a totally alternative museum a whirl - the German Hygiene Museum.  According to our LP guide to Dresden, this is a 'delightful and unexpected attraction.'  Well, that may be true, if you read German (and you're obsessed with cleaning)!!  Not only are photos prohibited, there were no audio guides in English, so we were pretty clueless about much of what we saw.  From the few exhibits that had English translations, we did learn that this 'museum' was started late in the 19th century and beginning in the early 1930's (yup, you guessed it) it became a museum devoted to racial and genetic purity.  On the verge of saying 'ta ta', Tim catches sight of an exhibit on sex and we're there!  This 'hygienic' exhibit covers all kinds of relevant topics including STD's, contraception, and pregnancy - no translation needed.  All in all, not worth a visit!

We reward ourselves with a trip to one of the many restaurants just a short walk from our flat.  This is a very local neighborhood, all small restaurants, all with outside seating, bakeries, bars - just delightful.  Tonight, it's Palestinian.  Absolutely yummy!!