This iconic city on the Elbe is often cited as an example of a miraculous comeback after the devastating effects of Allied carpet bombing in February 1945. Most of the city lay in ruins after the War, but you would never know it today. What's perhaps even more remarkable is that until 1990 it was part of East Germany and now, according to our host, Stefan, it is still struggling for economic parity with the rest of Germany.
Our first view of Dresden's Old City while crossing the Elbe on the city tram.
One of several entrances to the cobblestone walkways of the Old City. And the crown jewel of the Old City - the Frauenkirche Cathedral.
We queue up at the side door for the first tour of the day. Hundreds of us file inside and quietly take our seats in the pews. A young woman emerges from one side of the altar, walks up to a podium in front of the congregation and talks for about five minutes about something . . . could have been a recipe for apfelkuchen for all we knew! Yup, it was in German - lots of rapt faces around us so I guess it was a pretty compelling narrative. A couple of photos before our group was encouraged to exit and make way for the next one.
This is, without a doubt, the most ornate Lutheran church either of us has ever seen. This is sunglass city! This is Liberace does Lutheranism!
According to our LP guide, it's a faithful restoration. The East Germans left it a pile of rubble, as a war memorial. After reunification in 1990, a grassroots movement helped raise funds to rebuild it, and it was dedicated in 2005, 60 years after the end of the War.
Our second excursion of the day was to the Historiches Grunes Gewolbe (Historical Green Vault).
This was extraordinary and listed as one of the 'Must See' attractions and, of course, a no photo zone. In fact, it is so closely monitored that the number of visitors at any one time is controlled and each visitor must pass through a 'dust lock' before entering the exhibits. We were fortunate - no line, no delay, no back-up for the dust lock! I think this link will take you to the web site.
This was a series of 10 rooms of ever-increasing splendor that completely blow the top off 'over the top'. Each room contained treasures amassed by German rulers over the centuries, starting with August the Strong in the Middle Ages. One room was devoted to amber creations from court artisans as well as pieces brought home from afar. I didn't know that amber is fossilized tree sap from a particular fir, the most desirable of which grow in the Baltic States and are known as 'Baltic gold'.
Another room was all ivory carvings, of such fineness and delicacy I could almost get over my revulsion at their source. Yet another room was all ceremonial swords and their sheaths along with matching royal rings and bracelets. Another room was bronze sculptures and statues that were so lifelike I was just itching to reach out and touch them!
I kept wondering what happened to all these treasures during the war . . . they had to have been taken to safe keeping somewhere. The building itself, part of the enormous palace complex, was damaged but not destroyed during the war. One of the audio guide segments describes the process of restoring and rebuilding portions of the display rooms. (Note to self: find out what happened to all these treasures during the war.)
Feeling saturated with Baroque and Renaissance gilt, thought we'd give a totally alternative museum a whirl - the German Hygiene Museum. According to our LP guide to Dresden, this is a 'delightful and unexpected attraction.' Well, that may be true, if you read German (and you're obsessed with cleaning)!! Not only are photos prohibited, there were no audio guides in English, so we were pretty clueless about much of what we saw. From the few exhibits that had English translations, we did learn that this 'museum' was started late in the 19th century and beginning in the early 1930's (yup, you guessed it) it became a museum devoted to racial and genetic purity. On the verge of saying 'ta ta', Tim catches sight of an exhibit on sex and we're there! This 'hygienic' exhibit covers all kinds of relevant topics including STD's, contraception, and pregnancy - no translation needed. All in all, not worth a visit!
We reward ourselves with a trip to one of the many restaurants just a short walk from our flat. This is a very local neighborhood, all small restaurants, all with outside seating, bakeries, bars - just delightful. Tonight, it's Palestinian. Absolutely yummy!!
Our first view of Dresden's Old City while crossing the Elbe on the city tram.
One of several entrances to the cobblestone walkways of the Old City. And the crown jewel of the Old City - the Frauenkirche Cathedral.
We queue up at the side door for the first tour of the day. Hundreds of us file inside and quietly take our seats in the pews. A young woman emerges from one side of the altar, walks up to a podium in front of the congregation and talks for about five minutes about something . . . could have been a recipe for apfelkuchen for all we knew! Yup, it was in German - lots of rapt faces around us so I guess it was a pretty compelling narrative. A couple of photos before our group was encouraged to exit and make way for the next one.
This is, without a doubt, the most ornate Lutheran church either of us has ever seen. This is sunglass city! This is Liberace does Lutheranism!
According to our LP guide, it's a faithful restoration. The East Germans left it a pile of rubble, as a war memorial. After reunification in 1990, a grassroots movement helped raise funds to rebuild it, and it was dedicated in 2005, 60 years after the end of the War.
And just outside, Martin Luther surveying the plaza . . .
One portion of the enormous plaza . . .
Our second excursion of the day was to the Historiches Grunes Gewolbe (Historical Green Vault).
This was extraordinary and listed as one of the 'Must See' attractions and, of course, a no photo zone. In fact, it is so closely monitored that the number of visitors at any one time is controlled and each visitor must pass through a 'dust lock' before entering the exhibits. We were fortunate - no line, no delay, no back-up for the dust lock! I think this link will take you to the web site.
Looking at this totally modest entrance, you would never guess what's inside.
This was a series of 10 rooms of ever-increasing splendor that completely blow the top off 'over the top'. Each room contained treasures amassed by German rulers over the centuries, starting with August the Strong in the Middle Ages. One room was devoted to amber creations from court artisans as well as pieces brought home from afar. I didn't know that amber is fossilized tree sap from a particular fir, the most desirable of which grow in the Baltic States and are known as 'Baltic gold'.
Another room was all ivory carvings, of such fineness and delicacy I could almost get over my revulsion at their source. Yet another room was all ceremonial swords and their sheaths along with matching royal rings and bracelets. Another room was bronze sculptures and statues that were so lifelike I was just itching to reach out and touch them!
I kept wondering what happened to all these treasures during the war . . . they had to have been taken to safe keeping somewhere. The building itself, part of the enormous palace complex, was damaged but not destroyed during the war. One of the audio guide segments describes the process of restoring and rebuilding portions of the display rooms. (Note to self: find out what happened to all these treasures during the war.)
Feeling saturated with Baroque and Renaissance gilt, thought we'd give a totally alternative museum a whirl - the German Hygiene Museum. According to our LP guide to Dresden, this is a 'delightful and unexpected attraction.' Well, that may be true, if you read German (and you're obsessed with cleaning)!! Not only are photos prohibited, there were no audio guides in English, so we were pretty clueless about much of what we saw. From the few exhibits that had English translations, we did learn that this 'museum' was started late in the 19th century and beginning in the early 1930's (yup, you guessed it) it became a museum devoted to racial and genetic purity. On the verge of saying 'ta ta', Tim catches sight of an exhibit on sex and we're there! This 'hygienic' exhibit covers all kinds of relevant topics including STD's, contraception, and pregnancy - no translation needed. All in all, not worth a visit!
We reward ourselves with a trip to one of the many restaurants just a short walk from our flat. This is a very local neighborhood, all small restaurants, all with outside seating, bakeries, bars - just delightful. Tonight, it's Palestinian. Absolutely yummy!!
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