First stop this
morning, the HFDC bank somewhere ‘downtown’ where we hope Tim’s ATM card has
had a safe night. The 'bank' not much
more than a store front guarded by an aging soldier (?) with an even more aged
gun! I take his photo; he’s
delighted when I show it to him.
Tim tells his story to a bank employee. First question, ’What time did you
lose(?) your card?’ Huh? That
matters? ’12:30, maybe 1:00 pm
yesterday.’ Then another employee
turns around in his chair and opens what looks like a tin box made for spices
(with the inevitable huge lock) and removes a pile of bank cards –
maybe 25 in all!!
Tim shows him the copy of his passport and they retrieve the
BECU card – yippee!! But they want
his passport and Indian visa – ‘How about my AZ driver’s license?’ OK – that will do and off they go, ATM
card, and license in hand. Tim
then has to do a practice run, asking for an account balance, using the card –
and he’s cleared. But before the
card and license can be returned – the most important part of any transaction
in India must be completed – recording the event in a giant book (‘Retained
Card Register’ which could date to 1967).
Finally, the card and license are back in Tim’s wallet! Now for the ATM withdrawal which
started this whole thing.
We are instructed to wait outside with bank guard and
his pal. The machine is being
refreshed with cash and that takes a while . . . a long while. Meanwhile, chai wallah shows up and our armed guard insists we have chai (Tim refuses, I accept) – his treat! You gotta love this place – it’s so
screwy, inefficient, sweet, funny, and utterly unpredictable.
We’re so elated with this outcome we head off to spend our
rupees! Maharini Art Textiles here
we come – recommended by LP and our hostess, Anu (who assures us they get no
commission from the recommendation) and they sell quality merchandise with no
haggling (maybe a wee discount at the end but that’s it). All true – this place is amazing – 8
floors piled high with textiles of every hue, fabric, blend, size . . . it is overwhelming.
It’s a Jain (pronounced ‘Jane’ - remember our visit to the
Jain temples?) family operation and one of the sons, Bunny (yes, that's his name) asks what we are interested in. Bedspreads, table cloths, pillow
covers, hangings – and two hours later, we’ve amassed about 25 lbs of some of
the most fabulous stuff and arranged for it to be shipped home – all for the
grand total, including FedEx, of around $250. Unbelievable.
Lovely experience all around.
Photos of a few of our purchases and Bunny.
He is the the third generation of his family running this shop and very proud of their role in promoting Rajasthani and tribal fabric art. We are a bit early for the huge spring fabric fair, held at the fort - called the gypsy fair! Weavers from all over Rajasthan come to this as well as buyers worldwide - no wonder. Tim and I were utterly blown away by this place and can't wait for our FedEx package from India.
Perfect end to our stay in Jodhpur. We've enjoyed this city, despite Tim's feeling poorly and have been touched again and again by the kindness of the people. Our goodnight Jodhpur photo from our rooftop. (Michelle and Tom: this one's for you - thanks!!)
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