The Backwaters of Kerala

We cannot leave Kerala without seeing the backwaters.  The choices include renting a houseboat (an exploding tourist industry in Kerala), spending a day on a small rented boat or canoe, or taking the Kerala State Ferry.  We opt for the ferry from Alleppey to Kollam, about 85 km.  We leave at 10:30 a.m. and are due to reach Kollam around 6:30pm, with a stop for lunch.  

When we think ferries and canals, we think Venice (CA and Italy).  I think the Kerala ferries are all circa 1968 but, like so many things in this wonderful state, they are old, dirty, battered, ugly but they run, on time, and are cheap.  (And every ticket gets written down in a station master’s book!) This ride costs 600rupees for both of us – about $9.  We’re one of the last passengers to board so we get seats in the rear, noisy but reasonably comfortable.  There’s also an upstairs deck but the covering is very low and you have to kind of crab walk to get to the seats.

Photo from the back of the ferry.  Can you spot the two dead rats floating in the water?  

Note the campaign posters overhead.  Countrywide elections are April 14th and candidates are competing for the one billion Indian votes (yes, that's one billion).

The ferry interior.

Leaving the ferry canal.

Soon we’re into a wider canal, one of many we take on our journey.  

And everywhere, as in all over India, women beating clothes on rocks and kids bathing.  

These long boats were the only way to get across these canals, and to transport goods and people.  I even saw a motor scooter balanced precariously on one of these boats.

Friendly locals.

One of the feeder canals - old bridge in the background; new bridge taking shape in the foreground.

One of many houseboats 'yards' along the way.

Approaching one of many waterfront mansions.

A more typical dwelling.

Nap time . . . 

Can it be??  A lock??  Complete with fisherman!

We stop for lunch - 20 minutes the ferryman tells us.  Twenty minutes??  There must be 50 or 60 of us on this ferry; how are we going to eat lunch in 20 minutes?  Simple:  we all get a big plastic leaf-like thing onto which is piled a scoop of rice, three condiments, and a sauce on top of the rice.  And, yes, that is Tim eating with his hands!!!  Total cost - 200 rupees for both of us.  

And 20 minutes later, we're all back on the ferry, ready to go again.

It wouldn't be a trip anywhere in India without the ever-present poverty quilt of tarpaulins, home to so many.

Our ‘car and driver’ are waiting at the dock, along with Haksar (lovely surprise!) who’s come to greet us and take us back to Sea Splendour and Varkala.  Feels like coming home!