Which Side of Victoria Falls is More Impressive?

Victoria Falls straddles two countries, Zambia and Zimbabwe, and no doubt the debate as to which side is 'better' has raged for years.  Sadly, Zimbabwe's tourism has been tainted by the thuggery of its government, but we decide it's worth a walk over to see if we can settle the 'better' question.  But first we go to church - the local Catholic church and, again, this feels like what we both anticipated Africa would feel like.  It's packed for the 10am mass and other than one other young white woman, who looks like a somewhat dispirited NGO worker, we're the only whites - of about 500 attendees.  We walk in to the sounds of a children's choir singing a cappella in Tonga, the local language, accompanied only by a drum.  It is gorgeous.  Shortly thereafter, the altar boys enter, followed by a swaying, dancing group of young girls, attired all in white and finally the priest.  It is a long mass - really long - and we only last through the homily in which the priest urges the congregation to pray for those who are victims of sexual abuse and the abusers.

Once again, Lawrence takes us to the border which is just past the entrance to the Zambian Falls park.  He is prohibited from going further and tells us it's about a 30" walk across 'no man's land' to the Zimbabwean border.  This 'no man's land' is a mystery but it's totally safe and there are a number of what look like tourists walking with us.  We finally approach the Zimbabwe border, passports with our Unavasa's in hand.

We're baffled by the long line of flatbed trucks and a fellow walker tells us they're loaded with copper plates from the northern Zambian mines, awaiting clearance through Zimbabwe customs - read 'pay some exorbitant duty' to get through Zimbabwe to the coast for transshipment to China.  The first three vehicles were shipped from the UK three months ago and are still waiting for clearance/duty payment.  Behind them, copper trucks as far as the eye can see.

We feel the difference as soon as we walk through the Immigration building - this is not the same as Zambia by any means.  Passports stamped, we are directed to another building labeled 'cargo inspection',  and told to step onto an elevated platform and walk single file in front of four 'inspectors'.   This is starting to get creepy . . .

We obviously pass inspection and are finally allowed to buy our park passes ($10 more than in Zambia).  The sky has been threatening rain on our walk and now it starts in earnest.  We flip on our Ikea ponchos and make the best of limited photo ops.

So far, our vote is for Zambia!

Again, we meet a number of other visitors who graciously agree to take our photo . . .

This may be our best Zim Falls shot; I can only imagine what this must be like when the river is at its flood.

Another reason to come to the Zimbabwe side is to visit the Victoria Falls Hotel, a Victorian gem which is probably 'the' place for tourists to stay.  It truly is a gem and we opt for lunch on the gorgeous back patio.

You can see the smoke from the Falls in the left background and the Vic Falls Bridge just over Tim's head.

Time to head back and we opt for a short cut from the Hotel to the border.  It's through the woods but there is another couple in front of us so we're not worried - until they start walking faster than us and several men step out the bushes, peddling carvings.  We've encountered several of these sellers at the border and each one's story is more tragic than the next - 'I haven't made a sale all day and my family is hungry.'  'Please sir, just buy one carving - one US dolla.'  It's hard but we resist and keep walking.

On our way back across the bridge, we encounter a family group and I offer to take their photo.  then we have to have our picture taken with them.

And, at last, we're back in Zambia!

We get back through Zambian Immigration and Lawrence is waiting for, astonished that we walked both ways, back and forth - declares 'Poppa and Momma' very strong.

What a day!