Tuesday, November 1, 2016

The Highland Brigades at Magersfontein or Check Your Assumptions Before Going Into Battle

I confess, I'm not much for military history or battlefield tours, but Paul and Deb are keen on a visit to the Magersfontein Battlefield ('fontein' means spring or fountain in Afrikaans) so we decide to give it a tickle as they say in the UK.  We may get lucky and see some animals along the way!  It's an easy drive from Kimberley and we appear to be the only visitors.


Do you remember my mentioning the Siege of Kimberley in the last post (hint- the Macgregor Museum display)?  It was during the Boer War ('boer' means itinerant farmer in Dutch) and the Brits who occupied Kimberley were under serious siege. The stalwart Highland Brigades (12,500 strong) were on their way to liberate Kimberley, but they had to get past the Boers (8,200 strong) who were holding the high ground at Magersfontein.  Or so they thought.


Before dawn the Highlanders started their march from about 7km away (almost the far horizon).  It was in the middle of summer and beastly hot.  They aimed their big guns at the top of the mountain, sure they were going to dislodge the Boers.  But no - when they neared the foot of the mountain, the Boers rose up out of trenches they had dug there (and reinforced by stone walls) and began firing. It was a disaster.  The Highlanders quickly alerted the big gun handlers to adjust their firing range, but that was tricky as their own troops were in the same place.  When night fell, fighting ceased, and the remaining British troops went out into the field to gather the dead and wounded.  Legend has it that on a moonlit night, you can see the swinging lanterns of the soldiers retrieving their fallen comrades. 

It is a somber place and the museum is a stirring tribute to the casualties.  The battle set the Brits back two months in their march to Kimberley.  


This is a dry, harsh environment - reminds both of us of the desert Southwest - but just like at home, cacti and lizards flourish here.


He seemed to know we wanted a photo and cooperatively stopped for this beautiful shot.  His head, throat, and front legs were the most exotic shade of blue.


And he is the first of many animals we see on the drive home.  I still can't get over the fact that we'll be driving down the highway and WHOAAA there's an ostrich . . . 


He's one of a huge herd and I think he's farmed.  Such strange and wonderful creatures they are.
Stay tuned.  The next post is all about the animals!

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