To date, almost all of our interactions have been with the 10% or less of the South African population that is white. Not what we had hoped for but not all that surprising. However, now that we're in Knysna we have several choices for township tours. We opt for Emzini (means 'my home' in Xhosa) which, although slightly more expensive, is renowned for its contributions to the township community. The tour company is jointly owned by Ella and Penny who met over 14 years ago while attending the same church.
They run two tours a day, maximum nine people at a time, and Ella has enlisted the help of her son, Tandi (Xhosa for 'love'), for help as a tour guide. It is a very popular tour, and reservations are essential. We meet Penny at the Knysna waterfront at 10 a.m. on a gorgeous sunny day (our first in a while) and quickly fill the van and head up the hill to the township with Tandi as our guide. A little background . . .
In the early 20th century, the national government decreed, as part of their apartheid policy, that all blacks were to be resettled into townships that were within walking distance of the nearest town (there was a 'no man's land' to ensure the separation was enforced). 'Walking distance' is a stretch as the walking distance from this township into the center of Knysna, where most residents work, is several kilometers - downhill in the morning and a grueling uphill at the end of the workday. There is a jitney-type bus that costs 9 rand (about 60 cents) each way. Monthly wages are between 1300 and 2000 rand for the average worker who works at a restaurant or guesthouse.
View from the township into Knysna.
It's not entirely clear what people were supposed to do for housing back then, but until Nelson Mandela's release from prison and his subsequent rise to national power in the early 1990's, these were at best shanty towns - at worst, totally unfit for human habitation. The most famous township in South Africa, and one that became known worldwide as ground zero of the apartheid resistance movement, was Soweto, just outside Johannesburg.
One of the sweeping reforms Mr. Mandela instituted was the Reconstruction and Redevelopment Program (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reconstruction_and_Development_Programme) which mandated that every black South African citizen was entitled to a safe, clean home complete with running water, power, and sewer lines. Now, over 20 years on, the government continues to try and make good on this promise. Given that the population of South Africa is around 55 million people and approximately 80% of them are black (9% are colored and the remaining white, Indian and Asian), to say this is a daunting proposition is a gross understatement. Some cities are doing better than others; things in Cape Town are less than encouraging http://www.aljazeera.com/indepth/features/2016/09/south-africa-housing-crisis-remnant-apartheid-160929094237631.html
But here in Knysna, it seems to be working and working rather well. There are row upon row of newly-constructed brick dwellings, all with the same size plot of land, all identical in shape and layout - two bedrooms, kitchen/common room and indoor bathroom (about 40sq meters in all).
We learn from Tandi that this is a multi-step process: first comes the installation of temporary dwellings (small wooden structures); next is moving the occupants into the temporary dwellings and razing the old shanties. Once the new home is completed, the family is moved from the temporary structure into their new home. The temporary dwellings are then relocated to the next rehousing area, and the process is repeated.
We see all three types of housing on our tour. The terraced plots on the left above are awaiting new construction. Between 25,000 and 30,000 people live in this township which is comprised of a number of neighborhoods (including one Rasta 'hood which is weed central and worships Haile Selassie). The township is self-governed; each neighborhood (about 20 or so) has a council representative who reports to the mayor and together they are responsible for the whole township.
Most blacks live in townships; they were forced to until the end of apartheid. With end of this abhorrent policy, this was their community, this was their world, this was the only way of life they had ever known. Many blacks who have been successful have stayed in the townships, built rather grand homes complete with garages! A few blacks have moved 'into town' but no whites live in townships. And, interestingly, another group, known as 'coloureds' (mixed race) have their own townships; they do not live in black townships.
A township is pretty much a self-contained economic unit. We pass hairdressers, tiny grocery stores, take-away food stands, and ad hoc taxi services. We stop at a 'mend and make shoes' shop, owned by a very dynamic and articulate young man (Joe De Cobbler) who emigrated from Nigeria years ago, married a South African woman and they now operate this shop out of a shipping container.
This enterprising lady was barbecuing chicken feet which we are told is a favorite snack. In the background is one of 'the big five' township animals - the other four are dogs, pigs, goats and horses.
The highlight of our tour was a visit to a pre-school center where we were surrounded by smiling, happy little ones. They serenaded us with several choruses of 'If You're Happy and You Know It'.
Emzini tours operates 'safe houses' for people who are the victims of domestic abuse. Currently, they have two - one has four young women who are studying for admission to university; the other houses several women and their children. Alcohol abuse is a big problem here, and attempts to start AA have been unsuccessful. There are three primary schools and two high schools; education is free but parents must purchase school uniforms (used and free are available). In addition, there is an immaculate and inviting library and a fire house.
We pass several churches which Tandi tells us are well-attended and supported. He hastens to add that many of the African traditions are alive and well and coexist with Christianity. One of them is the ancient rite of circumcision. At the age of 18, a young man is circumcised and immediately sent into the bush with the admonition that he is not to drink any water for a week. Before departing, he gives away all his clothes, is dressed entirely in white, and given the blessing of the community elders. At week's end, he returns to the community where he is welcomed with a lavish celebration of his manhood along with a whole new set of clothes. Any young man who chooses not to undergo this ritual is forever banned or treated as 'less than' by the community. It's pretty much a 'must do'.
Our last stop is for tea and cookies while being serenaded by Tandi and four others, three of whom provide drumming accompaniment. Their voices blend seamlessly, effortlessly, fill the room and overflow into the yard and down the street. Absolutely beautiful!
We also get a brief language lesson in Xhosa which includes the unique clicks made at the back of the throat and produce a surprisingly strong and unique sound. Finally, we get a turn at drumming, complete with a lesson.
We're both struck by the lack of animosity or bitterness at the abysmal treatment of blacks over the years. Tandi looks at us and says matter-of-factly - 'We're a forgiving people. Carrying anger in your heart harms you far more than the one you're angry with.' I couldn't imagine a better thought on which to end this most remarkable day.
Thank you Emzini Tours - Penny, Ella, Tandi - and everyone who so graciously welcomed us into their lives today!
They run two tours a day, maximum nine people at a time, and Ella has enlisted the help of her son, Tandi (Xhosa for 'love'), for help as a tour guide. It is a very popular tour, and reservations are essential. We meet Penny at the Knysna waterfront at 10 a.m. on a gorgeous sunny day (our first in a while) and quickly fill the van and head up the hill to the township with Tandi as our guide. A little background . . .
In the early 20th century, the national government decreed, as part of their apartheid policy, that all blacks were to be resettled into townships that were within walking distance of the nearest town (there was a 'no man's land' to ensure the separation was enforced). 'Walking distance' is a stretch as the walking distance from this township into the center of Knysna, where most residents work, is several kilometers - downhill in the morning and a grueling uphill at the end of the workday. There is a jitney-type bus that costs 9 rand (about 60 cents) each way. Monthly wages are between 1300 and 2000 rand for the average worker who works at a restaurant or guesthouse.
View from the township into Knysna.
It's not entirely clear what people were supposed to do for housing back then, but until Nelson Mandela's release from prison and his subsequent rise to national power in the early 1990's, these were at best shanty towns - at worst, totally unfit for human habitation. The most famous township in South Africa, and one that became known worldwide as ground zero of the apartheid resistance movement, was Soweto, just outside Johannesburg.
One of the sweeping reforms Mr. Mandela instituted was the Reconstruction and Redevelopment Program (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reconstruction_and_Development_Programme) which mandated that every black South African citizen was entitled to a safe, clean home complete with running water, power, and sewer lines. Now, over 20 years on, the government continues to try and make good on this promise. Given that the population of South Africa is around 55 million people and approximately 80% of them are black (9% are colored and the remaining white, Indian and Asian), to say this is a daunting proposition is a gross understatement. Some cities are doing better than others; things in Cape Town are less than encouraging http://www.aljazeera.com/indepth/features/2016/09/south-africa-housing-crisis-remnant-apartheid-160929094237631.html
But here in Knysna, it seems to be working and working rather well. There are row upon row of newly-constructed brick dwellings, all with the same size plot of land, all identical in shape and layout - two bedrooms, kitchen/common room and indoor bathroom (about 40sq meters in all).
We learn from Tandi that this is a multi-step process: first comes the installation of temporary dwellings (small wooden structures); next is moving the occupants into the temporary dwellings and razing the old shanties. Once the new home is completed, the family is moved from the temporary structure into their new home. The temporary dwellings are then relocated to the next rehousing area, and the process is repeated.
We see all three types of housing on our tour. The terraced plots on the left above are awaiting new construction. Between 25,000 and 30,000 people live in this township which is comprised of a number of neighborhoods (including one Rasta 'hood which is weed central and worships Haile Selassie). The township is self-governed; each neighborhood (about 20 or so) has a council representative who reports to the mayor and together they are responsible for the whole township.
Most blacks live in townships; they were forced to until the end of apartheid. With end of this abhorrent policy, this was their community, this was their world, this was the only way of life they had ever known. Many blacks who have been successful have stayed in the townships, built rather grand homes complete with garages! A few blacks have moved 'into town' but no whites live in townships. And, interestingly, another group, known as 'coloureds' (mixed race) have their own townships; they do not live in black townships.
A township is pretty much a self-contained economic unit. We pass hairdressers, tiny grocery stores, take-away food stands, and ad hoc taxi services. We stop at a 'mend and make shoes' shop, owned by a very dynamic and articulate young man (Joe De Cobbler) who emigrated from Nigeria years ago, married a South African woman and they now operate this shop out of a shipping container.
This enterprising lady was barbecuing chicken feet which we are told is a favorite snack. In the background is one of 'the big five' township animals - the other four are dogs, pigs, goats and horses.
The highlight of our tour was a visit to a pre-school center where we were surrounded by smiling, happy little ones. They serenaded us with several choruses of 'If You're Happy and You Know It'.
Emzini tours operates 'safe houses' for people who are the victims of domestic abuse. Currently, they have two - one has four young women who are studying for admission to university; the other houses several women and their children. Alcohol abuse is a big problem here, and attempts to start AA have been unsuccessful. There are three primary schools and two high schools; education is free but parents must purchase school uniforms (used and free are available). In addition, there is an immaculate and inviting library and a fire house.
We pass several churches which Tandi tells us are well-attended and supported. He hastens to add that many of the African traditions are alive and well and coexist with Christianity. One of them is the ancient rite of circumcision. At the age of 18, a young man is circumcised and immediately sent into the bush with the admonition that he is not to drink any water for a week. Before departing, he gives away all his clothes, is dressed entirely in white, and given the blessing of the community elders. At week's end, he returns to the community where he is welcomed with a lavish celebration of his manhood along with a whole new set of clothes. Any young man who chooses not to undergo this ritual is forever banned or treated as 'less than' by the community. It's pretty much a 'must do'.
Our last stop is for tea and cookies while being serenaded by Tandi and four others, three of whom provide drumming accompaniment. Their voices blend seamlessly, effortlessly, fill the room and overflow into the yard and down the street. Absolutely beautiful!
We also get a brief language lesson in Xhosa which includes the unique clicks made at the back of the throat and produce a surprisingly strong and unique sound. Finally, we get a turn at drumming, complete with a lesson.
We're both struck by the lack of animosity or bitterness at the abysmal treatment of blacks over the years. Tandi looks at us and says matter-of-factly - 'We're a forgiving people. Carrying anger in your heart harms you far more than the one you're angry with.' I couldn't imagine a better thought on which to end this most remarkable day.
Thank you Emzini Tours - Penny, Ella, Tandi - and everyone who so graciously welcomed us into their lives today!
http://www.emzinitours.co.za/
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