At the opposite end of the Museum Plaza from the Van Gogh Museum sits the other treasure of Amsterdam's Museums - the Rikjsmuseum. I have no idea who or what Rikjs is or why he/she/they have a museum named for them but it's a stunner. Among its collection are a number of Vermeers as well as a good many Rembrandts. We hop on the #10 tram and are there in a matter of minutes (this public transit system is just first rate!).
Unfortunately, there is no information on the original building which is truly magnificent, replete with soaring archways and numerous stained glass windows. No, it was not a church; maybe some sort of government building or perhaps the HQ for the once-powerful Dutch East Indies Company.
From here, we're off to look at some of the famous Dutch painters (Vermeer, of course), including one I've never heard of but am very taken by - Breitner.
This felt so French impressionist and alive! Apparently Amsterdam was a very class-conscious city well into the 1800's; houseworkers were to complete their marketing chores no later than 11 am because between 11 am and 4 pm, noblewomen paid calls, went to their dressmakers, and couldn't be expected to rub shoulders with the hoi polloi. Breitner originally painted this foreground figure as a housemaid; he couldn't sell the painting. As soon as he painted over the maid's clothing and made the figure a noblewoman, the painting sold immediately.
And a few more pieces, again by artists I've never heard of, but their skill and talent are marvelous! The following two pieces are wood carvings.
And, yes, we do make it to the Hall of Honor where Rembrandt's marvelous 'Night Watch is displayed.
This painting is huge, easily 5 meters square and was commissioned by the local artillery company to decorate their hall. Problem was in its original form it was too big! So they cut off about a meter from the left side (as you look at it), giving it - once you know what to look for - an oddly lop-sided quality.
But nothing can take away what Rembrandt does with light - I must have stood here for 15" in awe of how alive this painting feels. Oh and the title - someone early on dubbed it 'Night Watch' because they thought the dark color meant it was nighttime - not so. This is simply the inside of the artillery barracks; could have been early morning for all we know! It's believed that Rembrandt painted himself in the picture (ala Hitchcock's cameos in his films) as a partial face just to the left of the stove pipe hat in the center. The artillery company wasn't all that pleased with the finished product; speculation is that some of the men felt they hadn't been portrayed as flatteringly as they'd anticipated.
A few more Rembrandts . . . the first a self-portrait as an old man and the second of his son, as a poor monk.
And this unusual piece. . . (I loved the feet!)
Now for a few things that caught my eye . . . this one titled 'Two Mothers'. Note the dog at her feet and in her right hand is a sack of puppies.
And this, if titled I didn't note it, an amazing clay sculpture which could be called 'The Evils of Drink'
And his drinking buddy . . .
I love it when I learn something and especially when I learn something that really excites me. I stopped to admire this tender sculpture (also in wood) and then read the accompanying plaque. Huh?? Did I read that right? Look below the sculpture . . .
I knew about Mary's cousin Elizabeth but I never thought about Mary's mother being childless for years - we're talking about the grandparents of Jesus! Grandpa Joachim!! Wow oh wow!
On that high note, we leave the museum and decide we have enough time to ride the tram to its terminus on the outskirts of the city and back and still be home by 5pm to meet our hostess, Patty, for 'check-out'. The city changes character as we get farther and farther from the canal area; it begins to look much more typically suburban, lots more cars, fewer bicycles, modern buildings, and we even spot a cruise ship in the harbor.
A couple more shots and we close our lovely 4 night/3-day visit to Amsterdam. Thank you Amsterdam, thank you Hans and Patty for a marvelously comfortable and elegant flat!
Unfortunately, there is no information on the original building which is truly magnificent, replete with soaring archways and numerous stained glass windows. No, it was not a church; maybe some sort of government building or perhaps the HQ for the once-powerful Dutch East Indies Company.
This is a huge museum and we've learned that our attention span runs out at about two hours so we pick and choose what we want to see and make a bee-line for the first exhibit. I'm intrigued by something called "The Weepers" a series of 10 bronze statues (wee - only about 16-18"high) of an original 24 which surrounded the tomb of Isabel 1, commissioned by her daughter to honor her mother.
In a fury of anti-Catholicism, the reformers desecrated many of the tombs of Catholics including this one. These statues are so beautifully detailed, they're breathtaking. I learn that the enlarged abdomen on the female sculptures does not indicate pregnancy; rather it's a sign of prosperity and well-being.
From here, we're off to look at some of the famous Dutch painters (Vermeer, of course), including one I've never heard of but am very taken by - Breitner.
This felt so French impressionist and alive! Apparently Amsterdam was a very class-conscious city well into the 1800's; houseworkers were to complete their marketing chores no later than 11 am because between 11 am and 4 pm, noblewomen paid calls, went to their dressmakers, and couldn't be expected to rub shoulders with the hoi polloi. Breitner originally painted this foreground figure as a housemaid; he couldn't sell the painting. As soon as he painted over the maid's clothing and made the figure a noblewoman, the painting sold immediately.
And a few more pieces, again by artists I've never heard of, but their skill and talent are marvelous! The following two pieces are wood carvings.
And, yes, we do make it to the Hall of Honor where Rembrandt's marvelous 'Night Watch is displayed.
This painting is huge, easily 5 meters square and was commissioned by the local artillery company to decorate their hall. Problem was in its original form it was too big! So they cut off about a meter from the left side (as you look at it), giving it - once you know what to look for - an oddly lop-sided quality.
But nothing can take away what Rembrandt does with light - I must have stood here for 15" in awe of how alive this painting feels. Oh and the title - someone early on dubbed it 'Night Watch' because they thought the dark color meant it was nighttime - not so. This is simply the inside of the artillery barracks; could have been early morning for all we know! It's believed that Rembrandt painted himself in the picture (ala Hitchcock's cameos in his films) as a partial face just to the left of the stove pipe hat in the center. The artillery company wasn't all that pleased with the finished product; speculation is that some of the men felt they hadn't been portrayed as flatteringly as they'd anticipated.
A few more Rembrandts . . . the first a self-portrait as an old man and the second of his son, as a poor monk.
And this unusual piece. . . (I loved the feet!)
Now for a few things that caught my eye . . . this one titled 'Two Mothers'. Note the dog at her feet and in her right hand is a sack of puppies.
And this, if titled I didn't note it, an amazing clay sculpture which could be called 'The Evils of Drink'
And his drinking buddy . . .
I love it when I learn something and especially when I learn something that really excites me. I stopped to admire this tender sculpture (also in wood) and then read the accompanying plaque. Huh?? Did I read that right? Look below the sculpture . . .
I knew about Mary's cousin Elizabeth but I never thought about Mary's mother being childless for years - we're talking about the grandparents of Jesus! Grandpa Joachim!! Wow oh wow!
On that high note, we leave the museum and decide we have enough time to ride the tram to its terminus on the outskirts of the city and back and still be home by 5pm to meet our hostess, Patty, for 'check-out'. The city changes character as we get farther and farther from the canal area; it begins to look much more typically suburban, lots more cars, fewer bicycles, modern buildings, and we even spot a cruise ship in the harbor.
A couple more shots and we close our lovely 4 night/3-day visit to Amsterdam. Thank you Amsterdam, thank you Hans and Patty for a marvelously comfortable and elegant flat!
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