No, that is not a typo; the latest estimates are that approximately 5 million tourists come to this charming town every year. Given that there are only about 25,000 residents inside the walled city (there are about 100,000 in the 'greater Bruges' area) that makes for some pretty crowded streets, especially right in the center of 'the egg' which is exactly how Bruges is shaped.
This map - which we folded, refolded, and turned every which way while trying to find our way around - gives you some idea of the tangle of streets and canals. Streets change names, some are unmarked, and the names are utterly foreign to us (Peterguildenstrasse was one of the easy ones).
We arrived on a Friday and after settling in, finding a lovely local spot for dinner, we decide Saturday will be our first official outing. Mmmm. . . us and maybe a 100,000 others whom we're convinced are here on day trips from neighboring cities and countries! The Markt feels like wall-to-wall tourists, but we persevere and find the Red Vest City Guides who do a free walkabout tour twice a day. Our guide, Wilhelm, is stunned by the size of his group but soldiers on. Tim thinks there are close to 75 of us, following like scrambling ducklings to keep up with Wilhelm, who fortunately holds his guidebook high so we don't lose sight of him in this crowd.
A must stop in Bruges, the Beguinage. We stop on the bridge and learn the history of this remarkable place and order. Interestingly, the Beguines are not nuns in the traditional sense; they do not take vows and are free to leave at any time. Just over the entranceway are the words 'Sauve Garde' which we're told means this is a place of sanctuary; or put differently, the nuns refused to place themselves under the jurisdiction of the town!
The inside is absolutely serene and beautiful. Apparently, the springtime bloom of daffodils is a town-wide celebration. Today we see a different form of celebration, thanks to an art exhibit with installations all over the town. Here we have tree houses . . .
The artist apparently wanted to recapture the innocence of childhood as symbolized by a treehouse but without any way to get up to or down from, that innocence is out of reach . . . but not to be forgotten.
From this serene setting, we're off to the commercial side of Bruges, the main intake canal where the taxman waited! Every incoming load of goods was overseen by the Lords of Gruuthuse and from the smallest Gothic window, the taxman was overseen in secret!
The structure where the taxman/tollkeeper made his collections (the spy window is out of frame on the left).
A gorgeous statue of what I believe is the most illustrious of the Gruuthuse sons.
The Gruuthuse complex is under renovation but this poster reflects their power.
Note the pendant - a sheep in gold (the 'golden fleece'?) and perhaps the origin of the phrase 'getting fleeced'?
Next stop, the palace square. Wilhelm tells us that there are 4 - or is it 5? - centuries of architecture represented here. He names them; I've forgotten them! However, several facades are not original but so faithfully recreated it would take an expert to tell the difference.
Over the smaller archway is the town symbol - the bear of Bruges - widely believed to be the very first resident. BTW - Bruges is actually a corruption or mangling of the Norse 'Bryghia' meaning 'landing place'.
Just across the Palace Square is another of the contemporary art installations - think this says it all about Bruges!
We're at the end of our walking tour and each participant is given a chit for some Belgian chocolate, Belgian beer, and a discount on a plate of Belgian waffles. All the remaining ducklings (think we've lost about half along the way) follow Wilhelm to the chocolatier where we each get a wee taste of the chocolate (milk not dark) and then hie off to the beer garden.
It's a mob scene but we manage a slot at the bar and a fellow walker offers me his seat, and we rapidly strike up a conversation. He's from San Diego! We trade emails and he sends me a snap from his iPhone. Such fun to talk to you, Ron; who knew I'd get into a deep conversation about organizational dynamics and leadership in a Belgian bar!
This post has run on so I'll make the canal boat tour - and maybe our Sunday church outing - another one.
Our B and B is just off the page to the right, about a 15" walk to the Markt. The canal in the upper right joins the main waterway to the sea which is only about 7 miles away. The small town of Dam was the off-loading point for large ships, and the barges were then pushed or poled up the canals into Bruges.
This map - which we folded, refolded, and turned every which way while trying to find our way around - gives you some idea of the tangle of streets and canals. Streets change names, some are unmarked, and the names are utterly foreign to us (Peterguildenstrasse was one of the easy ones).
We arrived on a Friday and after settling in, finding a lovely local spot for dinner, we decide Saturday will be our first official outing. Mmmm. . . us and maybe a 100,000 others whom we're convinced are here on day trips from neighboring cities and countries! The Markt feels like wall-to-wall tourists, but we persevere and find the Red Vest City Guides who do a free walkabout tour twice a day. Our guide, Wilhelm, is stunned by the size of his group but soldiers on. Tim thinks there are close to 75 of us, following like scrambling ducklings to keep up with Wilhelm, who fortunately holds his guidebook high so we don't lose sight of him in this crowd.
A must stop in Bruges, the Beguinage. We stop on the bridge and learn the history of this remarkable place and order. Interestingly, the Beguines are not nuns in the traditional sense; they do not take vows and are free to leave at any time. Just over the entranceway are the words 'Sauve Garde' which we're told means this is a place of sanctuary; or put differently, the nuns refused to place themselves under the jurisdiction of the town!
The inside is absolutely serene and beautiful. Apparently, the springtime bloom of daffodils is a town-wide celebration. Today we see a different form of celebration, thanks to an art exhibit with installations all over the town. Here we have tree houses . . .
The artist apparently wanted to recapture the innocence of childhood as symbolized by a treehouse but without any way to get up to or down from, that innocence is out of reach . . . but not to be forgotten.
From this serene setting, we're off to the commercial side of Bruges, the main intake canal where the taxman waited! Every incoming load of goods was overseen by the Lords of Gruuthuse and from the smallest Gothic window, the taxman was overseen in secret!
The structure where the taxman/tollkeeper made his collections (the spy window is out of frame on the left).
The Gruuthuse complex is under renovation but this poster reflects their power.
Note the pendant - a sheep in gold (the 'golden fleece'?) and perhaps the origin of the phrase 'getting fleeced'?
Next stop, the palace square. Wilhelm tells us that there are 4 - or is it 5? - centuries of architecture represented here. He names them; I've forgotten them! However, several facades are not original but so faithfully recreated it would take an expert to tell the difference.
Just across the Palace Square is another of the contemporary art installations - think this says it all about Bruges!
We're at the end of our walking tour and each participant is given a chit for some Belgian chocolate, Belgian beer, and a discount on a plate of Belgian waffles. All the remaining ducklings (think we've lost about half along the way) follow Wilhelm to the chocolatier where we each get a wee taste of the chocolate (milk not dark) and then hie off to the beer garden.
It's a mob scene but we manage a slot at the bar and a fellow walker offers me his seat, and we rapidly strike up a conversation. He's from San Diego! We trade emails and he sends me a snap from his iPhone. Such fun to talk to you, Ron; who knew I'd get into a deep conversation about organizational dynamics and leadership in a Belgian bar!
This post has run on so I'll make the canal boat tour - and maybe our Sunday church outing - another one.
No comments:
Post a Comment