Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Out and About in Ubud . . . Our First Balinese Dance

All the guide books state that the one thing you absolutely must do in Ubud is attend a performance of  a traditional Balinese dance.  Along with the usual 'welcome to our guesthouse info' our room book has a list of all the performances as well as the venues, dance companies, days/times, and costs.  This is obviously a well-orchestrated attraction as you simply need to look at the day to see what's playing where, when, and for how much.

There are two dances I would like to see (Tim patiently goes along with the plan!).  One, the Legong, is performed at the Palace; the other, the Kecak Fire Dance at the Temple, a setting that gets rave reviews.  Both are an easy walk from our cottage.  Tickets bought at the Tourist and Visitor Center and we're off to do some exploring.  Along with the room info book, a lovely, rather slick magazine was left for us - Ubud Life (?).  Normally I just ignore that sort of thing but one article caught my attention.  A young jeweler/silversmith from Canada moved to Bali years ago and has set up an apprentice program . . . in the local prison.  Her works, along with those of the inmates, are sold in her shops (Jewelry for the Soul), two of which are in Ubud.  I'm not 'into' jewelry but I am most curious about these shops and the program.

Only one wrong turn later, we make our way to the shop which is delightful, staffed by a lovely young woman and full of very affordable, imaginative creations.  And, yes, I did buy a couple of pieces!

Tim taking it easy in the jewelry shop after some very strenuous shopping.


On the way back home, we pass an intriguing shop full of exotic wooden creations.  Turns out they are from East Timor - a place that rings some distant bell of political upheaval and devastation 10 or so years back . . . what really captivates me is this wee one, son of the owner, who was so sweet and friendly . . . 


On to the dance performance!  It starts at 7:30 but we're advised to arrive as early as 7:00 to get good seats.  We arrive at 6:50 and the 'good seats' are in short supply.  Our not so bad seats are to the left of the stage, right behind one of the musicians' pits.  Their instruments are unlike anything we've ever seen . . . a wood percussion upright xylophone thingee and a kind of horizontal cymbal on steroids, both of which are very loud.  I mean very, very loud.  We were far enough back that it was tolerable but we watched a number of people seated on the opposite side of the stage (behind the other musician pit) actually get up and leave less than halfway through the performance.  

Taking photographs during the performance was forbidden, but I quickly realized that only flash photography was forbidden.   


Waiting for the dancers.  

We were handed a very brief program which told us that there were 8 segments to this performance; we had trouble figuring out how they fit together but in toto they portray the history of a local tribe, the Legong (I believe!).  Legong dancers enjoy a very respected place in Balinese society; they are remembered for their dancing decades after leaving the stage.


The first appearance of the dancers . . . since they were standing still, this photo is clear.  Unfortunately, a lot of the upcoming ones are blurry - whirling actions, no flash allowed and minimal light, my wee camera couldn't compensate, but I hope this gives you some idea of what we saw.


I found myself unconsciously trying to mimic the action of the dancers' feet (especially their toes) while watching them.  I admit, I can't get my feet or toes to do any of these moves!!

There were eight segments in this performance, and each one meant an elaborate costume change.

This was one of the mostly-male dance segments.

And here come the ladies . . .

Just getting dressed for each of these segments must have required a major backstage crew!

Just try flexing your toes like this!!

One of the last dance segments . . .

And this was the splendid finale . . . those are women atop each of these male dancers!

This was a long evening - upwards of 90" - and I'm still not sure I 'got' the Legong history/legend lesson but glad we decided to see this - absolutely unique!

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