Wednesday, February 18, 2015

Women Butchers, Father Bountiful, and Dental Envy


Time to get out and see a bit of Lombok.  A driver/guide who lurks just outside our cottages has offered his services so we arrange for the following day.  He turns up with his driver and friend and the four of us develop an itinerary (everyone here says 'program' as in 'what is your program for today?') which includes a visit to a famous temple in Mataram, Lombok's capital city, a walk about the local market, and finally a visit to a pottery village where we can see women making pots that have acquired a certain level of sophistication and recognition.

First stop the Temple -  


. . . huge and obviously the site of a variety of activities, including a Balinese dance class

. . . fishermen, big and small . . . 


Then it's off to the market.  I don't know what Tim's image was (probably pretty close to mine since we increasingly seem to share a brain) but this market boggles my mind (and nose, and eyes, and feet - watch where we put every step!).   Here's where the locals come to sell everything from dried fish to cabbage.  Literally as far as the eye can see are stands filled with every sort of vegetable, spice . . . all tended by women. Even the butchers are women! 



Not too many Westerners make their way here - we are called to, greeted shyly, and in general welcomed in that inimitably sweet way we've come to associate with Bali and now Lombok. 

This is a wholesale market - shopkeepers from all over the area come to buy the produce, spices, dried fish, and meats they, in turn, sell to patrons.  We're here on a Sunday so it's a bit slow . . . 







We have to make one stop in a package store and buy an assortment of things that all seem to be made of rice - the only thing we recognize are peanuts and they're way smaller than the peanuts we know.



Last stop, the pottery village.  Our guide, Din, tells us that it would be a kindness to stop and buy some pencils and pens for the children and hand them out as a 'thank you' for watching their mothers at work. 

Off we go for a walkabout . . . this feels like a pretty typical village, kids, chickens, goats, dogs everywhere, dirt lanes, communal dwellings and a lot of curiosity about these Westerners who come bearing gifts!  These pencils and pens turn out to be a genius idea - Tim is Father Bountiful and Santa Claus all rolled into one.  Amazing (and at the risk of repeating myself, humbling) how excited a child can get over the gift of a pen! 




Our reward, one of the women sits down at her 'wheel' and in front of my eyes in about 10 minutes or less makes a pot!  Amazing and of course she makes it look so simple - just glob that clay on, shape the bowl, add more to build up the sides . . . 


smooth it, and voila, a pot!   


Her smoothing tools - various sizes of flip flop halves (see them in the bucket)!! 



A chicken waits nearby, in case a pot needs decorating . . .



The pots are then set out to dry before going to be fired.



They are taken to a communal firing location but somehow everyone knows whose pots are whose and when they're 'done' are taken to a cooperative pottery store, a clever way to forestall competition that could disrupt this small, tightly knit village.




Funny exchange - this elderly woman chattered excitedly to Din, our guide, and seemed to want to communicate something to me.  I asked Din and he said:  'She says she's old like you, but you have such nice teeth!'   OMG, I hope I don't look this old!!  And she's right, the poor dear had about a half dozen, rotted stumps in her mouth.  Here she is trying to persuade Tim to purchase some herbs . . . 



Interesting, another exchange (translated by Din) were people commenting on how loving Tim and I were with each other.  Apparently, by the time Lombok couples get to our age, they barely speak, much less hold hands in public.  One woman volunteered that she hadn't slept with her husband for years!! 

And more than one woman wanted to know 'How old are you?'  Have no idea why that was important and my answer didn't prompt any kind of response - just seemed to be something they wanted to know.  (they never asked Tim, only me).  

Fascinating, informative, funny day . . . 



Lombok and the Super Bowl (Almost)


Our decision to spend at least a week on one of the out islands meant choosing (back to the French cheese market dilemma); there is no shortage of beautiful islands but we decide to buck the tourist tide and try a week on Lombok.  A short walk to the 'fast boat' counter and we're booked.   We've been prepared for the 'walk through the water to get on' but it's still a surprise.  Shoes off, pant legs rolled up, backpacks ported by women, and we're off! 



We're totally unprepared for the ungraceful exit from the front of the boat upon arrival - mercifully, no photos of that!  We're practically assaulted by men yelling 'taxi!!  taxi!!' while watching our bags being ported away from us at top speed!!  Somehow, we manage to negotiate a ride (turns out we were terribly overcharged) but we share with a fellow from Nelson, B.C. who's headed our way. 

Destination:  Sengiggi Beach, and an absolutely, lovely oasis, Cafe Wayan Cottages where we are given a heavenly room right in front of the pool!  We deliberately chose accommodations with a tv, hoping against hope that we'd be able to get the Super Bowl in which Seattle is playing the Patriots.  Last year we were in India during the Super Bowl and swear we could hear the roar from the crowd all the way to So India when Seattle won!  Can they do it again?? 


If they do, we won't be watching it on Lombok tv.  Their sports programmers have opted to broadcast the Australian Open!  Oh rats!  But Tim has anticipated that and downloaded an NBC Sports ap that is Plan B.   Sadly, it doesn't work (the internet in all of Indonesia is weak and intermittent) and we go to Plan C - KIRO Radio!  Yes!!  We listen to the play-by-play until mid third quarter . . . Seattle is ahead 24-14 and we lose the connection!!  We have to wait for a news feed to find out that . . . the Patriots have somehow pulled victory from the jaws of defeat and won 28-24!!  And we have missed what may have been the most exciting third quarter in Super Bowl history. 

Leaving Amed . . .

Bits and pieces before leaving Amed . . . the warung just a short walk in the other direction from Sri's is owned by the most joyful lady we've met in many a year - Potu.  Her restaurant also has 4 tables and sits butt up against the road just feet from whizzing scooters and other vehicles.  




We've walked by a few times and she calls out to 'come try my fish today'.  Tim, wanting to be kind, responds - 'tomorrow.'  Potu has a good memory for  faces . . . and promises!

One afternoon Tim comes back from a walk and announces we have to eat at her warung.  By now, Elizabeth has left and we've salved our tourist conscience at Sri's Overcooked Fish Warung so we're off to Potu's.  The first of many visits - she's a fabulous cook and after one meal has told us her family history!


We've read about black rice pudding and Potu tells us she can make it but needs a one-day advance notice (I think she has to special order the black rice).  What a fabulous dish!!


Another delightful character we met in Amed is Yoman (sp?) who has driven us to several snorkeling sites and enthusiastically shared his Hindu knowledge (Made told us he is the family priest at the village temple).   


We've noticed daily offerings in the form of small, intricately woven palm holders containing an assortment of flowers and a stick of incense placed at the entranceway to homes, warungs, and retail establishments . . . (sorry I didn't get a photo!)  Yoman tells us that these are offerings of gratitude to 'the gods' - every day, without fail.

Goodbye Amed - sweet, unspoiled Bali . . . 





Tuesday, February 17, 2015

World's Oldest Female Backpacker (no, not me!)

We've taken a certain amount of pride in backpacking our way around India for two months and now SE Asia for a total of four months with our 7 kg packs on our backs.  So just when we thought we were a wee bit of hot stuff, enter Elizabeth from Bonn, Germany.

It's a totally chance meeting in the warung just a quick walk from our homestay.  Although the sweet owner, Sri, overcooks her fish, we have gone back a few times out of . . . loyalty or something I can't identify.  Something about another one of those humblingly sweet Balinese we feel almost guilty about not patronizing! (and no amount of coaxing and pleading on Tim's part can persuade her to take the fish out of the pan/off the grill sooner!)

Back to Elizabeth.  One night at Sri's, we see a single older lady at the next table (there are only 4 tables) and we exchange hellos, talk a bit about food and her love of mango smoothies which she pours over her leftover dinner rice (we think it's a bit weird).  Next night, there she is again, and we invite her to join us. 



Turns out she's 85 years old, born in 1930, and has a horrifyingly vivid memory of watching German Jews being marched through the streets of her city.  It is embarrassing and painful . . . she's widowed 10 years and apparently glad to see the last of old hubby ('a gambler and a drunk to whom I had to pay support for years!')  Since his demise, she's traveled solo for four months every winter ('it's too cold to stay in Germany!') and she makes us look like backpacking wannabes!  She's been to India multiple times and absolutely loves it. ('I think I know it better than I know Germany.')  From here, she's on her way to the Phillipines for a month with old friends from Bonn. 

Another night's dinner and we're practically old friends.  She invites us to come and stay with her in Bonn (she has a 14-room house), and to arrive by the last Saturday in September when she hosts a 'big party' for all her friends.  'You can help me with the party.' 

This is her last night in Amed, and she's very nostalgic.  She's been coming here every night for dinner for two weeks (her homestay is a km away), thanks to taxi service on Sri's brother's scooter.  She's an avid hiker but these roads at night, even with a flashlight, are dangerous.  And Elizabeth is no shrinking violet.  Somehow we get on the subject of cockfights in Bali, and she whips out her iPhone and proceeds to play a video of a cockfight she attended!!  'Awful' she says as she hits 'replay'.

She insists we join her in a farewell drink - an Arack Attack.



Silly us, we think it's a benign, mildly alcoholic thing and want to be sociable.  One of these, split three ways, is a mind-bender.  This is the local hootch, poteen, moonshine, jakeleg that Tim swears is 100 proof.  My mouth and brain are immobilized - I am incapable of speech.  Arack is made from some sort of distilled palm leaves and to make it palatable, is sweetened with honey and lemon.  No doubt it would otherwise take the enamel off your teeth and permanently anesthetize your tongue. 

Our new friend, Elizabeth . . .



See you in September, Elizabeth!

A Month in Bali . . . Starting in Amed

Trying to decide where to go in Bali is a bit like trying to decide which cheese to buy in a French market - how can you choose from 400 varieties when they all look so wonderful . . . and you're very hungry??  That was our dilemma in Bali, but we finally decided on a 'taster' tour - some time on the upper NE coast, a visit to one of the out islands, a stop in Ubud and finally, another beach stop in Bali.  A month in all, the limit of an Indonesian tourist visa without incredible gyrations to extend it, which we opted out of.

Amed, our NE coast destination, is not really a town but an area that spans about 10km of coastline and has gained a lot of popularity of late for its dive and snorkeling sites.  It appealed to us because it was small, sparsely populated, and from all accounts retained a healthy dose of 'original' Balinese culture and charm.  It sits in the shadow of Bali's most sacred mountain, Agung, an active volcano which erupted just 50 years ago.  As a result, the beaches are a coarse black sand and the surrounding countryside a farmer's dream.

When you look at a map of Bali, it appears that getting from place to place isn't that big a deal - there are clearly marked roads and they seem to connect lots and lots of towns, not to mention the major tourist areas.  The distance from Denpasar airport to Alur Homestay in Amed looked to be about 50, maybe 60 km; it took almost 3 hours to make the drive!!  But worth it . . .

Amed is sweet, unspoiled and our homestay hosts were doting and caring.  Our room was right on the
beach with a perfect view of Mt. Agung.



Breakfast appeared each morning, delivered by the always smiling and delicate Wayan, sister of the owner, Made (pronounced Mah-day).  Somehow they knew within minutes of when we awoke and coffee appeared as soon as our eyes were fully open and a hearty breakfast shortly thereafter.



 The tourist boom has had its impact - there are a slew of guesthouses and warungs (restaurants) up and down Amed's one street.  But there is still a large indigenous population living as they have for years and doing what they've done for centuries - farming and fishing.  Every day at dusk, the fleet of boats that sat idle on the beach are lugged into the water by all available hands.  Men just seem to appear when needed and some number of them climb into each boat and somehow, using nets and muscle, bring in the catch. 


We eat a lot of fish.  Mackerel, snapper, tuna, and a few we've never heard of. 

Made tells us that the Indonesian government subsidizes the fishing industry by helping fishermen acquire the boats and the funny little outboard motors that propel them. That is the only explanation for the economics of this operation as there are as many as 15 men on one of these boats, and the catch doesn't seem to begin to support more than the feeding of their families, much less have anything left to take to market. 

Reminds us of the fishermen we saw in Kerala, South India - different boats, different catch but time-honored, collaborative traditions.






Saturday, February 14, 2015

Electric Bikes, Wooden Clothes, and Free Avoocados . . .

We’ve planned 2 days and 3 nights in Tauranga (midway down the east coast of the North Island) with Maureen and Alan and arrive to find them test driving Maureen’s new electric bike.  Talk about a fabulous toy!  A 5-minute operating primer, the loan of a helmet, and Tim’s off.  It’s almost a half hour before he reappears and his eyes are shining:  ‘What a neat toy!  This thing goes over 30 miles an hour!’  Faster than Brownie at full gallop!  And it doesn’t require a twice-daily ration of hay and pellets!!  Definitely have to look into one (or two) of these when we get home. 

A bit of background . . . we've known Maureen for over 25 years, ever since she and her former husband, Robin, arrived in DC to work at the aviation systems company where I also worked.  The four of us became fast friends during their year in DC, and we spent a lovely time with them on our 1999 visit to NZ.  Tragically, Robin passed away suddenly, less than six months after that visit, leaving Maureen devastated.  It was inconceivable then that her life would ever bring her to this point - a long-term, loving relationship with a most delightful man, Alan.  They met in Auckland at a ballroom dance club; he is funny, joyful, outgoing, and great fun.  They're now together going on 12 years and have a tender, loving relationship.

When we were here in 2012, we caught up with them (never having met Alan!) just days before they were to move from their South Island home in Mapua up to Tauranga.  We cleverly arrived at the new place in time to help them unpack and assembled our own beds for our visit.  We had a good laugh over the fact that they have no memory of us visiting them in Tauranga!!

No matter, as we picked up where we left off and had a grand couple of days.  They are eager to take us on a 'tiki tour' and see some of the sights.   First stop, the most amazing woodcarver, ever!  We walk up to the door and are both taken with the most comfortable-looking leather armchair, complete with throw rug and newspaper draped on one arm.  It's all wood!!  Unfortunately, taking pictures is forbidden so I have to content myself with a photo of his postcard - doesn't begin to do his works justice.

Interestingly, he is a former policeman who was severely injured and pensioned out at quite a young age.  A chance encounter with a piece of driftwood while walking on a beach changed his life.  He carved it into a dolphin and thus was born of a new career . . . with spectacular results.  These are all made out of wood!!  Each piece is carved with such exquisite detail, you'd swear you could pick them up and put them on.



On to a dramatic gorge which is the site of all sorts of sunbathing and diving.  People seem to heed the sign on the bridge . . .


. . . only to jump from the rocks on the opposite side!!



We're quite content to photograph each other from the safety of the bridge deck . . .





We end our tiki tour with a visit to a local park with a Maori marae (meeting place) as its centerpiece as well as a grove of the biggest avocado trees we've ever seen.  They are laden with fruit, ripe for the picking by visitors . . . 




Thank you, Maureen and Alan, for a most wonderful visit (we'll all remember this one!!) - we do hope to see you in Tucson . . . we promise to scare up some electric bikes!!




The Sea of Maori Spirits . . . and Fabulous Fish and Chips

At the northernmost tip of  the North Island of NZ, the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean collide, creating a maelstrom of roiling waters, scientifically explained and described by oceanographers.   Maori legend says it is there that the spirits of the recently departed climbed to the top of a tree and hurled themselves into the water in order to rejoin their ancestors who came to NZ from the sea.  I much prefer the Maori legend.  This is Cape Reinga, our destination,

We could make it in a very long day’s drive from Don and Judy’s  (9-10 hrs. on winding two-lane roads) but decide to break it into a two-day journey.  By the end of the first day, we’ve landed in Hokuhoku in a sweet, motel reminiscent of communes and flower children.  Uncharacteristically, there is no kitchen gear in our room but we are invited to use the communal kitchen where several of the owners are preparing their dinner.   We're also invited to help ourselves to the milk in the fridge – fresh from their cows!

A quick diversion into NZ place names.  An overwhelming number of places on the North Island have Maori or Maori-influenced names and are frequently repetitive:  Kerikeri, Katikati, Wakawaka and are so similar as to be confusing at best:  Taurangi, Tauranga.  Place names in the South Island are a lot more Anglicized – Nelson, Christchurch, Blenheim, Canterbury.  Oddly, there are only a few places that reflect the ancestry of the first explorer and discoverer – Peter Tasman who was a Dutchman!  Hence, New Zealand and Auckland.

The last 100km or so up the Northlands peninsula to the Cape is a big surprise to us.  The west side of the peninsula shows on the map as ‘60-mile Beach’ and we expect something like the Eastern Shore of Maryland or the Outer Banks.  What we got was more sheep and cows!!   We could see 60 Mile Beach but not one highrise, not even a house on the beach – nothing to mar the pristine beauty of this landscape.  Early afternoon we are there – looking at the seas roiling with Maori spirits.


Yes, the seas are really that blue and the skies that clear!



Off we head to Mongenui a short drive off the peninsula and down the east coast (not to be confused with Mt. Manganui which is near Tauranga, not Taurangi) and what is reputed to be the best fish and chips in all NZ.   Find a badly-in-need-of-updating motel with a million dollar view and gorge ourselves on what we have to agree is superb fish and chips. 

Maybe it’s all those good vibes from the Maori spirits who rejoined their ancestors . . .




The Secret Life of Tim, the Beekeeper

About two thirds of the way down the west coast of the South Island is a large peninsula dominated by Mt. Taranaki.  On our last visit, we hiked in this primeval forest and learned that it has been overrun by possums.  Locals get a bounty for killing them.  There’s even a new fiber blended from merino sheep wool and possum fur called possereno.  I don’t remember why possums have taken over this gorgeous wilderness but having no natural enemies, have become an absolute menace.   They decimated native wildlife and birds (eating their eggs), ruined many native trees and, as a result, are thoroughly detested. 

Judy and Don’s home, in the shadow of Mt Taranaki, is a wonderland of flowers, vegetables, and fruit trees and not a possum in sight.  All of this is heaven for the bees that Don keeps and which he’s eager to attend to as soon as we come back from fishing.  

We’ve already sampled the honey from Don’s hives, and there are no words to describe how wonderful it is.  I slather it shamelessly on toast and muffins at every opportunity.  To satisfy my craving, Tim is more than willing to suit up and help out. 



Apparently, in our short absence, a great number of bees have congregated at the opening to one of the hives, a sign, according to Don, that another hive needs to be installed immediately to prevent a swarm.  Interestingly, there is no evidence of colony collapse syndrome in NZ, which we know has ravaged bee populations worldwide.  These bees are alive and well and producing heavenly honey.



Meanwhile, Judy and I do our hunter-gatherer routine (no special garb required) and harvest tomatoes, beans, beets, broccoli, and lettuce from their abundant garden.  It is nothing short of amazing how well everything grows here . . . this is the end of the season but most gardeners would kill for this yield.  


And the flowers . . .


Tonight is a dinner party and Judy and Don whip up a feast for 13, all friends whom they’ve known since childhood - and us.  We met many of them on our last trip and it’s lovely to catch up . . .



Tomorrow we’ll head up to their bach in Urenui, spend the night and take off for our adventure to the Northlands.   


Thank you so much, Judy and Don, for another memorable visit!

A Clean, Green Country That Works

How often have you read or heard someone say, ‘I’m going to chuck it all and move to New Zealand.’  An announcement frequently followed by:  ‘Where?  I’ve heard of it but I’m not sure I could find it on a map.’  Or the wag’s response:  ‘Don’t they have more sheep than people?’  (no, not Greece where the men are men and the sheep are nervous.)  And, yes, there are more sheep than people (way more) and based on our recent observations, the cows appear to be close to outnumbering the sheep, certainly in the North Island.

But back to why New Zealand has become a metaphor for where life is still idyllic.   It’s clean, it’s green, stuff works, the literacy rate is one of the highest in the world, the school system is good, the social safety net is robust, the military is a token item in the national budget, the middle class is big and thriving, the minimum wage is almost twice what it is in the US, immigrants are assimilated, and while gun ownership is high, gun violence is almost non-existent.  I could go on, and on but you get the idea.  This is one neat nation.

Sure they have their issues, it does sometimes feel a little ‘Nanny State-like’ and people are not happy with a lot that’s happened over the last 10 or so years, but we didn’t meet anyone, anywhere who said:  ‘I’m going to chuck it all and move to . . . ‘ 

This is our third visit in 16 years.  The first in 1999 to visit friends from Washington, DC (NZ natives), the second in 2012 when searching for a place to call home when a move from New Mexico was imminent, and now just cause we’re in the neighborhood.  When we returned home in 1999, we both wanted to pack up and move. (I threatened to move anywhere out of the US if George Bush was elected in 2000.)  When we returned home  after our 2012 visit, we both felt it was just too far from everything, and the only place in the whole country you could find free wi-fi was McDonald’s! 

And here we are in 2015 and I feel like we’ve almost come full circle.  We’re not quite ready to go home and plead our case as émigrés, but this is one terrific country.  

On our previous visits, we managed to cover most of the North Island and a good portion of the South Island, so this visit is short (two weeks).  We’re catching up with friends and ticking a few boxes of places we hadn’t already seen.  First stop, Lake Taupo where we’ll meet up with Judy and Don and do some fishing.  I met Don serendipitously in a parking lot in Silver City in 2007 while hustling memberships to our local arts council.  He and his wife Judy came back to the States and spent a week with us in 2008, and we spent a week with them during our 2012 visit. 

Don has been keen to introduce Tim to the joys of fishing, hence our first stop is Lake Taupo, a gorgeous volcanic lake a 4-hour drive south from Auckland.  

Once we arrive and settle into our comfy motel (all motels in NZ come fully kitted-out with kitchen gear including an electric kettle, egg cups, toast racks, as well as free wi-fi) It turns out that all four of us will be going fishing.   Richard, an old friend of Don and Judy’s, has generously invited us out on his fishing boat.  Off we go to Richard and Dale’s ‘bach’ where we meet the whole family and, in true NZ fashion, are warmly welcomed. 

‘Bach’ is short for bachelor place and harkens back to the days when single NZ guys had a place at the beach to do the stuff US guys do in their man caves except NZ guys did it with fishing poles.  Today a ‘bach’ refers to anyone’s beach or close-to-the-beach vacation digs, often handed down through generations and ranging from a tricked-out trailer to an Architectural Digest palace.  Everyone in NZ seems to have one, and they’re always near water.  Note:  wherever you are in NZ, it’s only 75 miles to some large body of water.

It would be wonderful to report that we were successful and caught something, but alas, we were not.  We did, however, have a perfectly beautiful day on the Lake, toodling around in Richard’s boat, exploring the coastline, marveling at the sapphire blue water, and watching the occasional fish wiggle across  the fish finder screen (I think they were grinning at us as they swam by.) 


Don, Co-First Mate, Captain Richard and Judy, Co-First Mate


We all agree Tim has the laidback makings of a first-rate fisherman.


I, on the other hand, may need some of Tim's relaxed demeanor to get this fishing thing right!

Meanwhile back at the bach, Dale, Richard’s wife, had been preparing a sumptuous dinner for 11, capped by a Pavlova that brought tears to my eyes it was so wonderful.  She graciously agreed to send me the recipe.   


Tomorrow we’re off to Hawera and Taranaki; where there are bees that need keeping at Judy and Don’s.

A Floral Wonderland

Just a short drive from bulavista are the Floral Tropical Gardens.   This has to be one of the best kept secrets on the whole island.  It is spectacular, wonderful, jaw-droppingly beautiful.  Home to over 400 species of palms from all over the world as well as countless cacti, orchids and some of the most spectacular trees we've ever seen, the Gardens were developed by a British horticulturist in the 1990's.  


It is another blisteringly hot, wickedly humid day, but inside the Gardens it's remarkably cool (well, almost!).


The dense foliage . . .


The spectacular view once we climb to the Garden vista . . .




What a perfect way to end our time in Fiji . . .


And after nearly three weeks, we're even better friends than when we started . . . thank you Deb and Paul for enriching our lives and a special thanks to Paul for the 'three fives' almost a year ago in Udaipur, Rajasthan.

We'll see you in Melbourne in February and Tucson in Spring,  2016!!