Wednesday, December 3, 2014

The Long Tour of the 'Lesser Temples' of Angkor Wat

It is impossible to describe the size,  scope, and splendor of Angkor Wat.  Suffice it to say, one of the pass options is for 7-days.  We get a 3-day pass and even then we don't begin to cover - much less absorb - anything approximating the wonder that is Angkor Wat.  This is one of the few times that I would have been been willing to pay for a helicopter tour which would be a spectacular way to see and appreciate AW.

A brief history:  at its peak (late 15th - early 16th c or so), the Angkor /Khmer Kingdom had a population of over 1 million people.  By comparison, London's population at the same time was around 50,000.  Angkor Wat is the largest religious site in the world and reflects a building boom that started in the late 800's AD, reached its peak in the mid-12th century with the building of AW, and then continued until the end of the Khmer kingdom in the early 16th century.   There are so many temples, revealing so many reigns, and so many religious fluctuations, it is the work of a lifetime to understand them.

Interestingly, early French explorers were instrumental in securing AW for Cambodia, and it wasn't until 1953 that Cambodia secured its independence from France.  (Please don't quote my dates or history - I think I've gotten the basics right!).  It is now one of the Seven Wonders of the World - and rightly so.  I've not found anything that explains what happened and why the Khmer Kingdom waned . . .

At the recommendation of Reinhart, our guesthouse host, we start with the 'Long Tour' which takes in six of the surrounding temples near AW.  (There is also an all-day tour which goes 50 km or so to the distant temples which gives you some idea of the scope of the whole site.)  Rather than give you the names of each of these, I'll simply show you the photos . . . and keep in mind, these aren't the 'biggies' of Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom!!





An example of the efforts to prevent even more deterioration.


Experts think that the stones for all the temples may have come from as far as 50 km away!


Just one example of the heroic deeds of one of the rulers immortalized in stone.


Notice the cornice molding around the doorway - something we saw nearly everywhere in the temples.


Banyan trees reclaiming the jungle.


Reminded both of us of a rather traditionally-shaped Christian church . . . 


Walking causeway to what was believed to be a ritual cleansing temple.



On the return, we pass by a ramada with a group of men playing Khmer instruments.  The men are all missing limbs . . . victims of land mines.  We make a contribution.




Tolkien trees are everywhere . . . 





And a couple of the children we saw at the temples . . . sadly, not in school but acting as touts and able to count in a couple of languages, trying to sell us postcards ('ten for one dallah, madame').


And this sweet little one whom we heard humming and had to hunt to find her sitting in this opening . . .

It's hard to believe that this is just a sampling . . . we've been to six temples today, are aesthetically overwhelmed, and absolutely amazed.  Estimates are that there was more stone used in building Angkor Wat (the whole of the site) than in the pyramids of ancient Egypt.  I'm a believer . . .


No comments:

Post a Comment