Getting to Siem Reap

Traveling is frequently an exercise in exposing ones (frequently unacknowledged) prejudices and flying from Chiang Mai to SR is no exception.   We have two flights (both under 90") – one from CM to Bangkok and, after a 5- hr layover, another flight to SR.   We get on the plane in CM only to find that a woman is sitting in Tim’s seat.  OK, these things happen but once the mistake is pointed out, usually the person graciously moves or pleads to remain (and we generally agree).  Neither happened this time.  She tried to tell us we were wrong – huh?  There were three passengers and they had decided that we should take one of the empty seats (in the middle) across the aisle.  They decided, didn’t ask us - just decided - and it took a call to the flight attendant to get our seat! 

And it happened again on the flight to SR!  Same scenario – three women traveling together who’d decided they’d simply appropriate one of our aisle seats.  And once again we pointed out that one of them was sitting in my aisle seat.  This time they agreed they were in one of our seats but decided that since we were traveling together, one of us could take the middle seat across the aisle!   Huh?  When I said that was not acceptable, the three of them loudly told us why this was a bad idea (I wouldn’t like their loud conversation) and I would not be happy sitting with the two of them!  They then proceeded to grill me as to why I wasn’t sitting with my husband; the woman seated next to Tim did the same thing with him.   I chose to ignore them and their comments and worked very hard not to think badly of them (they were from Germany, speaking Russian to each other, and English with a very heavy accent).

We finally get to SR, an hour late, cranky, hungry, and tired.  Now it’s just Immigration then Customs and we’re in!!  But wait, we can’t get through the terminal door into immigration until we fill out a Health Card – huh?  This is a full plane (200+ passengers) and there is one person handing out these forms, inspecting them for completeness and then giving us an ‘If you get sick in Cambodia’ form.  One person!  It is chaos. Isn’t this the kind of form that should be handed out to passengers who can complete it en route?  Are they really looking for potential ebola-carrying travelers?

My strategy in these situations is to just let the crowd go in front of me – we’ll all get through the door, there’s no need to push and shove.  And that’s what we do and finally make it past the ‘health inspector’.  We’re inside!  And in another, long line to get our VOA.  It took me a while to realize that this is the first time I’ve not seen a ‘(Fill in the blank) Nationals’ line at an international airport.  There was no separate line for Cambodians!  

This is a Visa on Arrival (VOA) country - $30 each plus a passport photo – and a long, long line of processors who actually take your passport out of sight!  Another prejudice exposure here – all the Chinese tourists who brazenly attempted to jump the line – I called them on it, pointing out that the end of the line was behind us, causing all the English speaking folks waiting in line near us to congratulate me on taking the initiative.  We’ve actually brought photos and USD to pay for the visas.   All in all a pretty efficient operation.

Just when I think we’re home free – passports with colorful Cambodian visa inserted - and about to begin our SR adventure, I get a rude awakening at the Customs desk.  Apparently I didn’t have a completed Arrival/Departure card, and the lady Customs examiner proceeded to yell at me and demanded I produce the card.  She didn’t speak a word of English!  I called across to Tim who’d completed one card (given to us on the flight) which he thought would cover both of us; he was through – I’m still being yelled at.  Finally, I get a blank card, take it back to the waiting area to fill it in and go back through the Customs line – not the one with yelling lady!!   Well, by this time, we’re both ready to turn around and get back on the first Air Asia flight out of here!!  What a rude introduction to a country that has one of the 7 Wonders of the World (Angkor Wat) and whose tourist industry is their biggest source of income. 

Fortunately our tuk tuk driver (sent by the guesthouse) has been waiting patiently outside, holding a card with my name on it. He is sweet and kind and with his limited English comments on how late we are – he was worried. The trip from the airport takes us past row upon row of mid-rise hotel complexes, with tour busses filling the parking lots.  Is this a tourist town or what??  

We arrive at our guesthouse which is located away from the backpacking/ bar scene area and highly rated.  It’s lovely and we begin to relax . . . but when we tell the owner of our ‘adventure’ at the airport, he regales us with the wretched state of this whole country, the corruption of the police force, the thuggery of the politicians, the dangers of walking on the streets in SR!!   I can’t help but wonder if this has all been a big mistake . . . I have wanted to see Angkor Wat for a very long time, but this is an ominous beginning to this part of our SEA adventure.   

Things always look better in the morning . . .