Kerala Folk Museum and a Most Unusual Offer

Ft. Cochi – Day 4

Saj is dumbfounded when we relate our bus odyssey.  He has a better idea for today (and promises a free stay if this doesn’t work) – he will write the name of the right bus in Malayallam and we can either read it on the front of the bus or show it to people.   Right – like I could read the front of one of these busses which was put into service in 1967 and hasn't been washed since 1968 and the windshield is nearly covered with stickers! 

Nope, this time it’s a tuk tuk after the ferry ride - all the way to the Museum.  Our suspicions that locals don’t know about this Museum are confirmed when we show the driver our directions which happen to include the Museum’s proximity to Santa Maria Cathedral – that he knew, not the Museum! 

After all that, we make it!  And it is truly worth it.  What a gem.  In fact just 4 months ago, Prince Charles and the Duchess of Cornwall visited – their photos are everywhere.  While this is a dazzling collection of artifacts from all over Kerala, some dating back over 2,000 yrs, it is a private collection in a private museum.  The owner, a Mr. George, was a collector and decided he needed to create a home for his treasures and now they’ve fallen on hard times.  Signs posted at nearly exhibit plead for funds. 

Tim and I are both struck by the fact that there doesn’t appear to be any business model in place, and they would do really well to sit down with the same people who merchandised the Fort in Jodhpur – a classy gift shop, audio guide, slightly higher admission prices – instead they have a display of artifacts for sale!  Some are priced,  most aren’t, none are labeled as to provenance . . .

The bells that elephants wear for festivals.

We were totally baffled by this painting . . . check out the various body parts and the actions of the people.

Home on the ferry . . . it’s a holiday (pre-Holi) and the ticket terminal is mobbed.  There are separate ticket lines for men and women – the women’s is much shorter.  My turn to buy tickets . . . I’m approached by a number of men who ask if I can buy a ticket for them (the limit per purchaser is 3 tickets) – ‘Sorry, I’m at my limit.’ 

Now, one of the more amazing events . . . ferry is crowded but one young man stands out.  He looks like he was picked up in Goa in 1979 and dropped at the terminal to get on this ferry.  Rasta locks, tats, big shades, not at all like any of the young Indians – definitely out of place.  He ends up sitting near us on the ferry, chit chat, chit chat (that’s the norm now since we’re frequently the only Westerners) and then as we’re getting off, he leans over and asks Tim ‘Want some drugs?  I can get you whatever you like – ganga, weed?’ 

Hello!!  This in a city where you cannot smoke in public!  Most restaurants don’t even serve beer, much less wine or the hard stuff!!  We figure he must have been Kerala’s answer to the narc squad!  I think Tim’s secretly a wee bit pleased . . . just to have been asked.

This calls for a cold beer, watching the harbor – off to one of the few places where we can do that!