We lazed away a couple of days and then decided we needed to see some more of the local sights. Haksar called our kamikaze rickshaw (we call them tuk tuks but Indians still call them rickshaws) driver, and we're off to the see the local trifecta of Varkala: the Varkala Tunnel, the Sivagiri Temple, and the 18th century Fort Ajengo built by the British (not sure what they were defending/protecting down here).
The Varkala Tunnel, allegedly built in the mid 1800's by the local dewan of Travancore, is 924 feet long and took 14 years to complete. It was obviously slow going. So the 'allegedly' comes from the dates inscribed on the Tunnel face: 1939-1945. Not quite as slow going.
At one time, boats could actually pass through this tunnel but over the years (take your pick 1800's or mid 20th century), it's silted in and now is a weird tourist relic. There is actually a river down there - somewhere. Our lungi-clad driver describing it to (a clearly dubious) Tim.
Behind them is a series of concrete stalls that appear to function as public bathing/laundry centers.
We saw a couple of women with baskets of laundry on their heads and heard children squealing with delight under the perpetually-running faucets.
Off to the Sivagiri (pronounced 'sheevagiri') Temple. This was a real surprise. It's a pilgrimage center as well as a temple, dedicated to the teachings of Sree Narayana Guru, a social reformer of the early 20th century. He's also buried here.
We quickly figured out this was not Hindu, Moslem or any other religion we knew. A very serene place with a few pilgrims, cautiously photographed by yours truly.
And one new pilgrim.
Beautiful, serene place (with a very long climb to get to the actual temple).
The Guru's vision: One god, one people, one world.
Off to Fort Ajengo.
A busload of school children were just in front of us (we were the only other visitors) and after we signed the 'guest book' (literally a book with all the names of visitors) the girls stood excitedly asking 'where are you coming from?' 'What is your name?' And when I said 'Carol' they giggled uncontrollably. Huh? This isn't the first time this has happened - think I may try another name for this trip. Any ideas? Somehow I don't think anyone would believe 'Sabeena, or Salma, or Zephyr'! The school girls waving goodbye.
We were standing on a parapet walkway when I took this photo, no guard rail, no hand holds - straight fall to the ground! All the school children wear uniforms and they appear to be the same all over Varkala - neat. Boys wear the same colors (I don't know how that one fella snuck in there!)
Pretty uneventful as forts go but a sweet experience. Tomorrow the Swami temple!
The Varkala Tunnel, allegedly built in the mid 1800's by the local dewan of Travancore, is 924 feet long and took 14 years to complete. It was obviously slow going. So the 'allegedly' comes from the dates inscribed on the Tunnel face: 1939-1945. Not quite as slow going.
Behind them is a series of concrete stalls that appear to function as public bathing/laundry centers.
We saw a couple of women with baskets of laundry on their heads and heard children squealing with delight under the perpetually-running faucets.
Off to the Sivagiri (pronounced 'sheevagiri') Temple. This was a real surprise. It's a pilgrimage center as well as a temple, dedicated to the teachings of Sree Narayana Guru, a social reformer of the early 20th century. He's also buried here.
We quickly figured out this was not Hindu, Moslem or any other religion we knew. A very serene place with a few pilgrims, cautiously photographed by yours truly.
And one new pilgrim.
Beautiful, serene place (with a very long climb to get to the actual temple).
The Guru's vision: One god, one people, one world.
Off to Fort Ajengo.
A busload of school children were just in front of us (we were the only other visitors) and after we signed the 'guest book' (literally a book with all the names of visitors) the girls stood excitedly asking 'where are you coming from?' 'What is your name?' And when I said 'Carol' they giggled uncontrollably. Huh? This isn't the first time this has happened - think I may try another name for this trip. Any ideas? Somehow I don't think anyone would believe 'Sabeena, or Salma, or Zephyr'! The school girls waving goodbye.
We were standing on a parapet walkway when I took this photo, no guard rail, no hand holds - straight fall to the ground! All the school children wear uniforms and they appear to be the same all over Varkala - neat. Boys wear the same colors (I don't know how that one fella snuck in there!)
Pretty uneventful as forts go but a sweet experience. Tomorrow the Swami temple!
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