Carol and Tim's Excellent Adventure: Holy Cow!!

Varanasi Day 2

Mid-morning we’re off, in Harish’s homestay car, followed by an autorickshaw to accommodate all of us. Now we see Varansi, and smell, and taste and walk in it. First stop one of the oldest buildings in town where Harish points out the architectural features unique to Varansi. Reminded us somewhat of the French quarter in New Orleans – somewhat.

Some of our group (L to R) Roberto, Richard and Sally, Harish, Tim, Mariana, Mishra (driver) and German.

Gate to a sacred site.

Back in the vehicles, one more stop at another architectural gem and then the real fun begins – the alley walking tour. Think Venice without the charm, and no possible way to orient yourself to the rest of the city, much less the rest of the world. If Harish had abandoned us in this labyrinth, we would still be there! There is almost no light, no ‘street’ signs, nothing . . . just a spaghetti jumble of small shops with a walkway inbetween just wide enough for maybe three people to walk and then hop out of the way when the occasional scooter comes roaring up the walkway.

We’re still reeling when Harish tells us we will stop for some ‘street food’. Here? Eat what? But we do (Mariana assures us that Roberto has enough drugs to take care of any ill affects) and Tim who has passed from grossed out to gobsmacked actually agrees to eat a cauliflower battered and fried in something (ghee?) and we all agree the food is delicious. Our chef.

There’s actually some sort of order to this labyrinth as we notice some alleyways seem to have spices, sugar, flour and others mostly clothes. Others are wee shops selling everything from books to chocolate. And we walk and walk until we get to the Dosa Café – time for lunch! Our group takes up the entire café which proudly displays a ‘Recommended by Trip Advisor’ medallion! How did anyone ever find this place?? The kitchen must be the size of the top of an end table as it takes a long time to prepare dosas for all seven of us, but they are wonderful! Tim outside the dosa café.

A bit more walking and then it’s time for coffee or chai! Harish likes to eat and shares all his favorite places with us.

Our barrister (chaiista?) See that sign ('Post')? that's across the alley from the coffee show.

Sally, Richard and Harish.

Sweet Mariana.

One more stop on our foodie alley tour - a lassi!

I couldn't get a photo of the process, but lassi man took a portion of yogurt, spices and fruit to order and whisked them in a blur in a container. Roberto got some photos, German looks on and Richard is fascinated by something! Note the pile of small pottery cups.

Then we have the option of more alley shops or a visit to the flower market. I jump on the flower market idea and after a brief stop at a street-shop where Harish haggles over a scarf for Tim (settle on 80 rupees – about $1.30), we’re into the flower market. The beauty is stunning. In this dirty, polluted city, here is a display of the most gorgeous flowers at the most ridiculous prices. And it’s a mob scene – all the flowers displayed on the ground with the sellers in the classic squatting position next to their wares. Harish tells us this goes on from down to dusk.

Can you tell I was fascinated by this! One of the reasons for all the marigolds is that all the temples are lavishly decorated with them, and it is traditional to put a small wreath of flowers along with a candle in a wee 'boat' and make an offering to Mother Ganga.

The last part of our walk takes us through the residential part of the 'old city'. One of the funnier incidents involved a very large bull and a very small alley.